The clutch and brake felt a bit out of sync in the general positioning we were used to but we adjusted  throughout the trip. We launched ourselves into the traffic flow (and dark) and promptly ended up in the wrong lane and in a parking lot. After careful extrication we were back on the road and headed for Mellifont Abbey.

Lack of sleep, jet lag and stress at driving on the wrong side of the road resulted in some tense marital moments, but we survived and arrived safely at Mellifont. This being the off season, we didn't expect much to be open, and we were not disappointed in that regard. The site was closed for the season and we were too early in the day at any rate. We're not adverse to hopping a fence or slipping under a turnstile if there isn't anyone about. Why avoid an experience just because it doesn't appear to be open? Chances are if you wait, no one will show up anyway. Don't be shy, apologize and/or pay later. If the booth is open when you come back, offer to pay, chances are they'll wave you away. There was no gate or turnstile (and no open restroom) so we went down the stairs to the site. Parts of the site were undergoing restoration and the scaffolding didn't do anything to improve the view. Restoration work is pretty common, but rarely is the entire site obscured.
We wandered around Mellifont as the sun was peeking up over the hills. The abbey itself isn't overly picturesque except for the octagonal lavabo where the monks used to wash up. No restroom open there either. There are what looks like cloister arches remaining that are very light in construction as opposed to the heavier columns in most monastic ruins. Most of the site is graveled and a little overly polished and pristine.  The best part wasn't the abbey, but the bit above the parking lot. There is a small chapel with a view down to the gateway entrance above the car park, and a small graveyard. This area was much more interesting and less polished than the main complex. The light was perfect, early morning and golden. Another good thing about this time of the year, the light is low on the horizon all day. This provides good light for photography pretty much all day. We were fortunate with the weather, very little rain and many dramatic clouds. The weather was on the chilly side, but we were dressed in layers and had gloves .

The next stop was Monasterboice. Just a short drive away from Mellifont Abbey. We found it with little problem and less marital issues. We're getting into travel mode now. The parking lot was well posted with warnings about leaving valuables in the car unattended. A suspicious looking caravan was parked nearby, but no signs of life. We had all our luggage with us, but as there wasn't anyone around and unlikely to be, and the site to the car was a very short distance, we didn't worry much. Monasterboice was little changed from our 2002 visit. A nicely laid out site, with high crosses, older gravestones and a round tower. We still had great light and took many pictures around the site. The main difference we noticed was the lack of foliage. Scott found a new lock to add to the image collection.

Jet lag caught up with us and we made a stop in the parking lot of Donaghmore Church and Round Tower in Co. Meath for a brief nap. We were not expecting the site, it just snuck up on us.  The car park was large and out of site of the main road. Perfect for a quick recharge. Scott hopped out for a brief run around the site after the nap. Not a lot to see, there was a very nice metal gate at the back of the graveyard. There graveyard is clean and neat. The stone tower is in good shape, but not much else remains. It was pretty chilly out, so it was nice to get back into a warm car.

We had never  been to the Hill of Tara and when a sign appeared, off we went. We made a brief detour to a St. Patrick's Holy Well nearby. Not much to see, but here it is. The sign nearby had some history of the site. You should be able to read it if you click on the image to the left. The site is just a bit further down the road to the left of Tara.
The Hill of Tara itself is singularly unexciting. A hill it truly is, you walk past a statue of St. Patrick, past a church and through a graveyard, and then across a field and up a hill. Fair warning, the hill is slippery, especially in bad weather and strewn with sheep and their droppings. It is hard to tell the mud from the extrusions. Probably not so good in nice weather either. There was a gentleman in a suit, tie and dress shoes, it was just a matter of time before he went down. Walking up isn't so bad, the descent is treacherous. Scott took a tumble and wore the muck for the duration of the day. The sheep stuff wiped of the camera, but maintained a stubborn hold on the camera strap throughout the trip to this day. The view from the Hill of Tara is picturesque (depending on the weather and visibility). Other than that, it isn't remarkable. Probably in tourist season the guides season the walk with liberal applications of history, craic and blarney which improves any excursion. I had to settle for the liberal application of sheep poo. We stopped in the nearby cafe for hot tea and scones, they were wonderful in fortifying us for the rest of the day. The clotted cream and jam were brilliant.

Our next stop was outside of Trim at the St. Peter and Paul Cathedral and Newtowntrim Cathedral in Co. Meath. We'd visited this site in 2005 and were looking forward to a recap. The site was little changed except being either better trimmed or just significant winter die back on the grass and weeds. We didn't find anything  new and interesting, but took a lot of pictures anyway. There are some nice stone details at Newtowntrim higher up on the wall like the angel shown on the right. Well worth a visit. It is easy to find along the main road to Trim. Just cross the stone bridge and park along the road. There are ruins on both sides of the bridge.

The next stop was Bective Abbey, Co. Meath. This was a favorite of our son Josh in 2005, so we had go make a stop. We found parking and avoided the traffic across the street. Scott was distressed as someone has replaced the antique lock with a more modern and less attractive model. We climbed through the small gate and crossed the field to the abbey. We climbed the entry stairs and immediately made a phone call to Josh to tell him we'd arrived and where we were. We had to leave a message. We wandered through the site with much reminiscing about how much fun it had been with Josh in 2004.

We wandered along toward Dublin  to the goal of getting to our accommodations at Avoca House B&B. We'd been there two times already and didn't anticipate any problems finding it. We were so wrong. Technology didn't help either. The Blackberry with GPS didn't work well. It couldn't find where we were, so that didn't help. Somewhere North of Drumcondra we admitted defeat and phoned Jack at Avoca House B&B. He gave complete and rapid fire instructions, perceiving where we were from landmarks and gave details of how to get to where we needed to be. Karen understood enough to get us back on track. Well after dark, we arrived safe and sound. We enjoyed the usual friendly welcome and settled into our ground floor room. We took the obligatory excursion to Fagin's Pub for dinner and were pleased as usual with the quality of the Guinness. The food is good but basic pub fare.
We had a good nights sleep, dead to the world in a comfortable bed.
 

We started up in a leisurely fashion. We arrived for breakfast a bit late, anticipating a bit of abuse from Audrey, our hostess. We were not disappointed. She served the usual full Irish on request, lots of food, "rashers" (bacon to us, but better) and sausages were delicious as usual!, replete with stories and the full craic. Hopefully she enjoyed our conversation as much as we enjoyed hers. We caught her up with our family information and inquired as to hers. sounds like life has been good to her and the family. Full to the gills with eggs, rashers, sausage and accessories, we sallied forth towards Dublin. The card in the hall refreshed our memory as to the  bus routes to city centre.
Karen had plans to spend the day in the National Archive doing family research. We'd verified that they were actually open this time. We took the bus downtown, stopped at the tourist centre on O'Connell Street to pick up Scott's prepurchased City Bus Tour pass (the best value), and walked to the National Archive. It was open, Oh Joy. Karen proceeded inward, while Scott headed towards St. Stephan's Green and the nearest City Bus Tour stop.

Boarding the bus, it proceeded onward to Christ's Church Cathedral, Scott's first stop o' the day. This was a first visit and worth every Euro of the modest entry fee. There was some class of Christmas preparation in progress the caused some disruption of the main area. The rest of the cathedral was unaffected. The rear area and the lower level were the most interesting.   It is a bit eerie to walk around under the cathedral with all that stone above. There was an interesting historical exhibit below that didn't allow photography, so no pictures of it. There was a lot of gold and silver plates and other pieces of memorabilia from the cathedral's past. The rest of the underbeneath was open to photo opportunities.  When exiting the main entrance, go towards the East, the large door is attractive and there is a historical site of the original site of the cathedral. Further East, look up to to see the gargoyles on the upper wall.

St. Patrick's Cathedral is a short walk South from Christ's Church Cathedral. The modest price to enter is again, worth every Euro. The cathedral is photo friendly with tripods allowed. The real trick is how long to stay as there are photo opportunities at every glance. Fortunately I have a VR lens that provided image stabilization and  removed the necessity for a tripod in most cases. I was able to get some good interior shots with very little light. I didn't use the flash as that would disrupt the other activity and people in the cathedral. One of these days I am going to have to be more disciplined about using a tripod. It is just a hassle to carry around and setup. After about an hour of happy wandering it was off for the next point of interest and my real goal for the day!

Back on the City Tour bus and along for a few stops. Past Kilmainham Gaol, no stops here this time, I had bigger fish in mind. Kilmainham Gaol is well worth a visit, especially if it is your first time 'round. The next stop was Heuston Station. Not so interesting. The building architecture is nice, but there were a fair amount of layabouts at the side entrance. The front had a lot more legitimate looking traffic, but overall it wasn't that interesting. I crossed the Island bridge and off towards the National Museum at Collin's Barracks.

Another day in Dublin and another full Irish to fortify ourselves. Karen was spending another day in the archives now that she'd got the system down. I was off for another day of buses and walking. This time I headed straight for St. Michan's, determined not to miss out on the mummies due to odd hours. I hopped on the bus and rode it to Christchurch. At the corner I saw a disconcerting sight. Some kind of large military vehicle. We also saw guards armed with automatic weapons during a bank transfer. No one batted an eye so we tried to be casual as we walked by.  I headed down under the archway by Christchurch, and walked across the Liffey. A short walk brought me back to the entrance to St. Michan's. The gate was open this time! I entered the church and paid my minimal entrance fee. The tour started in a few minutes so I checked out the postcards and purchased a few, (I never saw them again, so either I left them somewhere or lost them along the way). A small group was gathered and we walked out to the side of the church and our guide opened the vault doors. A large black hole with steps down led under the church. We entered and along with the running commentary by our guide, we treated to equally large amounts of dust. No bad smells other than old wood and dirt. The alcoves were mostly shut, but some held coffins and we were told in detail of their owners. Eventually we made it to the back of the vault where the real attraction was. The alcove to the right in the back was open and lit. In it, several mummies reclined in their final bed. They looked dusty and deflated. No pictures were allowed, or maybe we didn't press it enough. (Follow this link and scroll to the bottom to see pictures) We were allowed to go in one at a time and touch the finger of the crusader's mummy. This was supposed to bring you luck, just like most other odd sites and relics in any tourist trap. The finger felt like polished bone or marble. It was shiny from all the touching over the years. An interesting experience, not one for the squeamish. Evidently something about the air in the vaults acts as drying agent and none of the bodies rotted. This is an interesting novelty as the rest of the country could do with some drying out in many terms of the word.

We had the usual challenges leaving Dublin as we'd had entering. We tried to chart a direct course that would take us out of Dublin easily and get us to Glendalough via the back route. The directions we were following varied from the reality of the map and roads. We wandered about a bit on the outskirts of town looking for the right road. We stopped at a gas station/store to get some Club soda and figure out where we were. After asking directions, we finally got the right route and off we went through back country roads. We passed through some pretty bleak looking country and knew we were heading in the right direction, but didn't know when we'd arrive. We were trying to make Glendalough for a short visit and then to Avoca and back to the B&B we'd reserved online.

 We arrived at the waterfall overlooking Glendalough and shot a few pictures at the top and on the way down. Glendalough was uncrowded, but very cold and windy. We hit the high points and then back to the car to warm up. Unfortunately Scott discovered his camera was still set to 6400 high ISO from the night before so all the Glendalough pictures were very noisy, not a good thing. Karen had better luck.

Avoca proved to be a disappointment. Avoca is the site of the popular TV show Ballykissangel. We didn't expect it to be exactly like the show, but there was hardly any sign of the show from a marketing or promotion standpoint. Some of it was probably the time of year as most places are closed, but this went beyond being closed. We were able to visit the church, which looked much the same, but the strong odor of mildew was overpowering. There were a couple of shops open, but almost no BallyK products except a few postcards and trinkets. Talk about a missed opportunity. They should have had DVDs of the show and books and pictures for sale. We visited the pub, the food was adequate and the service poor. We hopped in the car and drove up and down the road on either side hoping to see some other landmarks from the show, but no luck. We headed for the B&B.

Robin's Nest B&B is a nice B&B and restaurant at the Meeting of the Waters. The rooms are plain but clean. The real action is below in the restaurant and pub. The rooms are partially over the pub, but it wasn't overly noisy. Be sure to walk around the area adjoining the building, especially across the bridge and along the walkway out to where the rivers meet. The attached restaurant has excellent food and we had a good dinner in a warm dining area with lots of memorabilia on the walls. The pub was active until the wee hours and was more or less beneath our room. It wasn't overly annoying.
 

We got up early as we had a good amount of road to cover. We had to be in Co. Cork to our next reservation by evening. The breakfast was good, the usual full Irish. The morning was cold with frost on the ground, cars and some trees. A mist was coming off the river. We packed up the car and then took a quick walk across the bridge and down to the meeting of the waters. There was a heavy mist on parts of the river with the sun beginning to shine through. The air was cold and it looked like a good day ahead.

We wanted to take a fairly direct route towards Inchigeelagh via Macroom. Along the way we wanted to pay a quick visit to Hore Abbey below the Rock of Cashel in Co. Tipperary. We charted a route that kept to back roads as much as possible and took us through Carlow. We also wanted to visit Jerpoint Abbey near Thomastown in Co. Kilkenny. It was a short jaunt from Carlow to Jerpoint Abbey and we found it easily. We were the only car in the lot, but to our surprise the visitor's centre was open. A nice woman greeted us and provided us with a quick overview of the site and it's history. She loaded us up with printed material and warned us repeatedly about the dangers of walking backward at the site, especially while taking pictures as there were many stones and low walls to fall over. She also provided detailed information about how to get to Cashel the quickest way along with written instructions. We took a quick look through the graveyard between the visitor centre and the entrance to the abbey and then plunged in before  anyone else arrived. The sky was blue with few clouds and while the air was brisk, if you were out of the wind the sun warmed you up nicely. The morning sun cast nice shadows in the abbey and along the remaining cloister walls. The interior was very well kept, a bit much so for our taste. There were several nice details on the remaining cloister columns and on several stone crypts. We spent about 45 minutes wandering and taking pictures before heading back to the car. We pulled a package of Oregon treats out to give to the lady in the visitor centre for all the help, and then off we went towards Cashel.

Cashel is a large town and easy to find. We knew right where we were going and found the side road with the walkway to Hore Abbey. The wind was quite stiff and cold and blew us around a bit along the unprotected walk to the ruins. The sky was still blue and clear, but it was getting later in the day. You could definitely feel it was December. We hadn't been able to visit Hore Abbey since our first visit in 2002. Last time we ventured out to Cashel the rain was coming in sideways and an excursion down the hill from Cashel would have been painful and pointless. Again, this time we were the only visitors and we wandered among the ruined walls and took many pictures of the ruins and the Rock of Cashel on the hill nearby. There was some scaffolding up on Cashel and detracted from the view as well as the occasional large truck along the road below. The best views were on the backside where a small graveyard presented a nice view with Cashel in the background. It was also partially sheltered from the wind. After an hour or so we were thoroughly chilled and starting to feel a bit pressed for time so we headed down the long walkway to the car and onward towards Macroom and then Inchigeelagh.

We called ahead to warn our host at Tir na Spideoga that we might be a bit late. After that is was a mad rush down the Irish back roads to try and make it there before dark. It became apparent that we wouldn't make it. We passed through Macroom in the deepening dusk. It gets dark early in Ireland this time of year. By the time we made the turnoff to Inchigeelagh is was completely dark. There are no lights along the road and we had good directions, but were afraid of missing the sign in the dark. Turns out that we had nothing to fear. It showed up well in the headlights and we set off along an even smaller lane climbing upwards. Many twists and turns later we found the place and pulled in. Our host greeted us and showed us to our room in the back. Tir na Spideoga Fishing Lodge is a rustic group of cottages and main house with B&B rooms. We were kindly offered dinner (for a small additional fee which we were glad to pay) to save a trip back into town. We accepted and had dinner by candle light in a glass enclosed sun porch that was to be our dinning spots for several meals to come. The food was good hearty Irish German fare (fish, go figure) and we retired soon after to our room. The rooms are in the old part of the house with very thick stone walls. The room had two single beds with a thick futon like mattress and a pile of cozy blankets. The room was adequate if a bit tight for two people and all the baggage, but we managed. The worst part was getting up in the night to go to the bathroom and leave the warmth of the bed. The stone floor was a bit of a shock to the feet. It had been a long day and we slept well.
 

Today was the day for more hiking we'd decided. It would get the blood flowing after a day of driving and the weather looked acceptable. We had breakfast on the sun porch. The sun wasn't shining, but it wasn't raining either. We eyed the low hanging clouds while we finished breakfast and then packed up what we needed and headed for the Gougane Barra. The Gougane Barra is a located just out of Ballingeary on the road SW towards Bantry on the R584. There is a hotel and large forest park with numerous bike paths and trails. Everything is well signposted so finding it and finding your way around is easy. We parked near the hotel (closed for the season) and made our way out to St. Finbarr's Chapel on a small island in the lake. The island is connect to the mainland by a causeway. The chapel on the island was built at the end of the nineteenth century and very picturesque but locked tight. Evidently this is a popular wedding location in warmer months. Also on the island is the ruins of Fr. Denis O'Mahony's retreat where he became a hermit in the 17th century. His grave is just across the causeway in a small graveyard. Among the ruins we noticed a wish tree with numerous coins hammered into the bark. The tree had grown around many of them and they'd been there for many years. There was a mix of old Irish coins and newer foreign coins and a selection of Euros. There was also a sign requesting that no one stick coins into the tree, obviously ignored. The ruins had a large central area with a cross in the center, allegedly the site of St. Finbarr's cell. The other openings around were supposedly the cells of other monks. Not comfortable or spacious, but at least somewhere protected from the elements.

We returned back across the causeway and explored the small graveyard where Fr. Denis O'Mahony was buried. It was a mix of old and new stones as many of the graveyards in Ireland are. We got back into the car and drove a short distance to the start of a trailhead, marked with a sign. We took some water and the camera gear and headed up the trail. The trail was more of a narrow road that two people could easily walk side by side. Along the way, the occasional lane or path led off through a field. There was a good deal of wildlife along the way, mostly birds, an occasional rabbit and many sheep. We planned on walking for an hour or two and then turning around and coming back. There didn't appear to be a loop, or at least it wasn't well signed. Probably in warmer months there would be some information and perhaps maps at the hotel. We took several detours across fields to what appeared to be a ruin house or an interesting viewpoint. Overall it was a nice walk, not to taxing with nice views of the countryside. It could have been done on a bike just as easily and perhaps we could have explored some other side roads. We eventually turned back and retraced our steps to the car. It was now early afternoon and we were looking for some food, a warm place to sit and relax.

  We drove slowly back to Ballingeary. Slowly because of the scenery and the roads are fairly narrow and well traveled. We didn't find any places open in Ballingeary that looked promising for food or rest. There was a shop were were interested in, but it was closed. We headed up a back road towards Ballyvourney. This was the site of the infamous tire blowout in 2005. We had not been able to spend much time in the town as a result, and wanted to go back. Cork is dotted with plaques and signposts marking sites of battles, skirmishes and memorials to fallen resistance heroes. We ran into a couple along the way and it inspired us to look for more and certainly stop at any we saw. This proved helpful later as we read or watched movies like "The Wind That Shakes the Barley " or "Michael Collins "  (both excellent and highly recommended) in placing locations.

Further along the way we saw an old road with a ruined farmhouse. The road was so torn up the mud was almost thigh deep. Karen elected to stay in the car, and Scott carefully skirted the mud hole and made it over the barbed wire fence with only minor damage. Up the lane a ways was a ruined farmhouse and barn. Evidently someone still used the land as there was a newish tractor parked nearby. This explained the muddy torn up lane. Most of the slate had fallen off the roofs and there were many hand forged nails sticking out of the barn walls and beams. The barn smelled strongly of horses, so it was still in use on occasion. Most of the interior was to dark to see anything except for the occasional shaft of light through the roof or wall. Quite a bit of twine laying about and bits of rusted metal. Nothing very interesting, but a fun side adventure none the less.

  Arriving in Ballyvourney, we managed to avoid tourists with blown tires and suffering any mishap ourselves. We found the Mills Inn open and a quick glance at the menu posted showed it to be affordable. There was also a touristy gift shop just off the car lot that we marked for a visit after lunch. Food was the top priority so in the back door we went. The place looked a bit high class for our muddy clothes and boots (especially Scott's), but they didn't throw us out and instead showed us to a comfortable corner table. We ordered a hot whiskey and food from the many options on the menu. I don't remember what we ordered but it seems there was shrimp and salmon involved. The food and drink were excellent and we did some people watching as we relaxed. There were a lot of people in for a late lunch or early supper. One old couple near us looked nervous and chatted awkwardly. We speculated that it was a blind date but couldn't tell for sure. After lunch we wandered over to the shop and found it an interesting mix of tourist and local goods. We found some interesting small gift items amongst the usual tourist fare.

We made our way back down through Macroom to Inchigeelagh. Not as must haste this time as we knew the way and were not pressed for time. Once in Inchigeelagh we drove slowly as it was still light enough to see the town. It was an odd mix of new and old. There was a nice old church and graveyard that we mentally noted for a visit in the next day or so. We spotted several pubs and pulled over to park as this is the best way to get to know a town. We found Creedons Hotel in the small attached bar. Inside a coal fire was blazing, dispelling the chill of the prior unpleasant pub and the approaching dusk. We pulled up to a table near the fire and bar and ordered pints. The bar tender poured them carefully and set them to settle. He and a gentleman at the bar were engaged in a lively discussion ranging from politics to literature. We settled in to get warm and absorb the ambiance. Shortly we were pulled into the conversation in the usual Irish manner and before long we had fresh pints, were sitting at the bar and debating world politics, literature and food. We heard some local tales and general news about the area. The pub owner's wife wandered in, was introduced and did some washing up before disappearing in the direction of the kitchen and restaurant. Before long an interesting character wandered in from the bathrooms. Evidently he had been there some time or there was another entrance (there was). He was a interesting looking old gent with an assortment of plastic bags. He hung around for awhile and then made his exist back into the bathroom area. We then heard some stories about him, the most memorable being his propensity for hitchhiking. Evidently he was fairly well off, but preferred to use other's cars to get around. He carried miscellaneous stuff in his bags including newspapers and candy to share with his prospective taxi drivers. At some point he'd bummed a ride with a couple of young ladies on their way to do some sunbathing or swimming. They'd been carrying their bikini's in a bag and he'd hopped in the car before he'd realized who his travel companions were. He'd fumbled around and made an exist a little way down the road, but not before accidentally exchanging one of his bags of newspaper for their swimming attire. More stories ensued on both sides and American Irish relations were improved. So much so that as we were preparing to go we found a bag of scones and a jar of jam thrust upon us as a farewell gift. They were delicious as a snacks over the next couple of days. We drove back to Tir na Spideoga in enough time for dinner and then off for bed. Don't remember what the dinner was, but it was good.
 

Time for laundry. There is just no escaping some mundane chores on a long trip. We hadn't seen any laundry facilities in Inchigeelagh or Ballingeary so we thought we'd try Bantry for laundry as it is a larger town. The best option we found is to drop off your laundry and get it back clean and folder later in the day. This keeps you from having to spend time in a laundry shoving coins into a machine and waiting for things to dry. Off to Bantry we went. We passed through Ballingeary and didn't see any laundry, but didn't stop to do a through search. Along the way we stopped at viewpoints for some spectacular landscape scenes especially at the Pass of Keimaneigh. We also found the Battle of Keimaneigh memorial dedicated to the memory of those who died in 1822.

  We had a day to kill and decided to try some unexplored territory. The Sheep's Head peninsula was supposed to be beautiful, untraveled (this time of year that certainly wasn't an issue)  and mostly accessible. We did some research ahead of time, and found a B&B out on the furthest point of the peninsula. They were nice enough to accommodate us for a single night during an off season, lucky us!

We left Inchigeelagh at a reasonable hour and headed down for Bantry to pick up our laundry. We took the main route, but made several stops along the way as the scenery demanded. The sun was low on the horizon, making it look like sunrise and there was some mist on the hills.
We stopped just before Bantry for a fill up on petrol  as it looked like the best prices in town. We took a quick run through Bantry, got our laundry, but there wasn't anything to see this go round. We had already stocked up on Club soda and snacks at the petrol station, so off we went in search of the Sheep's Head peninsula.

Leaving Bantry we found the turnoff to the Sheep's Head a short distance out of town. We took a long leisurely drive along the Goat's Path with many stops along the road to Kilcrohane. Across Bantry Bay you can see the Beara peninsula and Castletown where we were planning to stay the next few days. Along the way we took some drives down towards the water. There was a functioning pier that we poked around on. It was very slippery in spots, well used with some interesting old machinery nearby. It looked like some sort of winch to pull boats in.

 Traveling back the way we came to the main road we found a number of ruined buildings. Mostly old farmhouses with rusting boats in the yards. Some were just shells with no roof while others still served as storage sheds. The grass around all of them was long and untrimmed and very little recent sign of activity was visible. The scythe certainly had seen little use.

Further down the road we came to the crest of the hill, mountain or whatever the highest point was called. Numerous signs pointed out the sites in each direction. The sun was shining and there were puffy white clouds in the sky. Beautiful scenery all around. We hopped out to take a look and hopped back into the car pretty quickly. The wind was blowing with a persistent unobstructed force that quickly made things feel like it really was December.

We needed to be at the B&B around 2pm to check in. We were a little early, but managed to find the driveway after a steep downhill road with many switchbacks. Ballyroon Mountain B&B is a lovely cottage separate from the main house. It is a single large room with a coal stove, comfortable chairs and views out onto Bantry Bay and across to Castletownbere and the Beara peninsula. The location is a bit remote, but worth the drive. There is a great selection of books and DVDs if you want to lounge inside. We'd recommend staying at least a week or more and exploring the Sheep's Head walks and local area in depth. The breakfast options and quality is excellent, and the owners are friendly and accommodating. We checked in, and got a recomendation from our host to take a walk out to the lighthouse if we had time. We did, and stretching the legs sounded like a great idea after all the driving. We were given good directions and a bit of history and handed the keys. We admired the cottage and view, unloaded and headed back out for a walk to the lighthouse.

We found parking at a visitor's center. It was closed as were most sites this time of year. The path went two ways and we took a walk up to a lookout/lighthouse to the North. The path isn't difficult but does have a good climb until you reach a building at the top. It provides some shelter from the wind, but has no windows, just openings. From here you have a good view towards Bantry Bay and the Beara and in the other direction towards Mizen Head. Many pictures later we walked back down to the visitor center (still closed).

This time we headed mostly West and a bit South along a track that supposedly led to the Lighthouse. The track varied between a semi road to a path but never entirely out of the wind. Many cows along the way looking at us skeptically. Cows are big critters with no fences separating you from them, but they didn't attack or show any inclination towards carnivorous activity so we passed them by. This is pretty long walk, we estimated about four miles or so. Beautiful rolling hills with views of the sea. We didn't walk along the (probably more accessible) ocean/cliff side. Just as we were giving up hope of finding the end of the peninsula when we found a big open area down a slope below us. It looked like the start of a clearing or potential stone circle with missing or shortened stones. On closer inspection turns out it was a helepad. Just down from that was the Lighthouse. More of a one person lighthouse with standing room only. We didn't walk all the way out to the lighthouse as we were tired and it was a long way back. We suddenly realized that it was getting late and as the sun set early, we both needed to find food before the town shut down and needed to get to the car before dark. We hoofed it back as quickly as we could with a few photo stops. We stuck closer to the ocean and made better time. This is probably the recommended route and is much more level. Very tired, hungry and wind blown we got back to the (still closed) visitor center.

We made a quick drive into Kilcrohane to see what there was to eat. We decided on the way to get food to take back to the cottage instead of finding a restaurant. The little store was cluttered with all matter of interesting things and fortunately was still open. We grabbed a loaf of local homemade bread, some sausage, cheese and a fruit tart. A bottle of wine rounded out the small feast and a few Euros lighter we hopped back into the car. We headed up the road to turn around and found ourselves facing Fitzpatrick's Pub. A place out of the wind, a fire, a pint and a nice sit down to review the pictures sounded in order so we parked and went in. A fire burned in a large fireplace cluttered with memorabilia and a small dog was stretched on the stone floor soaking in the heat. A couple of locals were chatting with the owner and we ordered pint and took a small table near the fire. We noticed a map of the Sheep's Head with all the walks marked on display for sale. A must have if for no other reason than to see where we'd been today. One pint led to a second and we had a chat with the proprietor. All in all it sounded like the Sheep's Head was a good place to come back to for a longer visit.

Back at the cottage we ate a dinner by the coal stove and then sipped wine and relaxed. Awhile later Karen pulled out the gifts for our friends in Castletown and the wrapping paper we'd purchased and did some magic with them. Wine gone, stomachs full and very tired we slid under the covers of the cozy bed and drifted off to sounds of crackling fire, wind and waves.

We woke with anticipation of breakfast from our host's description of the various options (including kippers). We showered and did the various other things that one does to get ready to have breakfast served to you by total strangers. We made the short walk to the main house and had a seat in the sun porch. The air was chilly outside but nicely warmed inside. Some Christmas decorations and a small tree made you remember that it was December. The table was already laden with an assortment of fruit, juices and cereals. We placed our order for eggs and smoked salmon and kippers. It arrived quickly and we tucked in to the small breakfast feast. We were already regretting that we could only stay one day here. So much to see (and eat). We quizzed our hosts further about the area in anticipation of a return trip. After breakfast we went to pet the donkey noses before packing up. We could see the pig from a distance and didn't want to get closer in case we encountered him on our table on our next visit. We settled up and loaded quickly and with final goodbyes we headed up the hill and towards Castletownbere on the Beara peninsula.

 We took the other road along the SE side of the Sheep's Head peninsula. There were wonderful views all along the way. Many small towns with small piers full of fishing boats. Quite a bit of wildlife as well from swans to herons. We didn't stop long in any one place as the sky was spitting rain on occasion and it was quite cold and windy. This route is more populated than the top road and definitely worth a revisit and a slower drive.

 In Bantry it was Market Day, much more interesting than our prior visit, and we spent some time wandering around in the stalls. We purchased some wreaths to give as gifts, but nothing else struck our fancy or was something we wanted to cart around. It was the equivalent of a US garage sale, complete with paperbacks and knickknacks, except that it was concentrated in one area and had food. There were quite a few Christmas related booths and displays. All in all, a good way to kill an hour or so.

 We made a stop in Glengarriff and visited the Quills Woolen Market, one of our frequent stops. We were hoping that because it was off season, we'd find some good deals on woolen goods, linen and crystal. We did find some more pieces of John Hinde Seanfhocal pottery (it has Irish proverbs in Irish and English), but are still looking for the teapot! There were some good deals in several of the shops in the town. Definitely a good time to shop.

The drive to Castletown was uneventful. The sky was still grey and the wind was blowing and there wasn't much to see along the way. Not that the views weren't nice, the light just wasn't good. There was a good deal of road construction along the way, or at least evidence of it that made the trip a bit slower. We arrived in the town with no incident and drove to the main square and found parking. We'd been here a few times and knew our way around, especially where to eat! Brookhaven is where we were going to stay, but we had a better offer! We stayed with the Harringtons in the apartment above the restaurant and butcher shop they own. They had rented out the house to someone associated with the Dunboy Castle restoration for an extended period, but we all managed just fine. We  highly recommend their restaurant Jack Patrick's in town, just across from McCarthy's Bar near the town square. Say Karen and Scott sent you, but only if you're going to be well behaved. We walked into the butcher shop (not sure what it is now as John retired in late 2008) and said hi to John and he let us into the restaurant and chased down Cathy. We had a great reunion as it had been about a year and a half or more since we'd seen them. Julie and Conor wandered in soon and we got reacquainted upstairs. Later we sat down to a great steak dinner and further merriment involving Christmas crackers and paper crowns ensued. Our energy was flagging, but we let ourselves be dragged down the street to a pub to watch the set dancing. The place was lively. When we first arrived it looked like standing room only. A set had just ended and everyone was getting a refill. We found a spot at a table in the back and settled in to watch. It was to loud for much chatting, but Julie and Karen made a good attempt. We lasted for about two hours and called it a night and walked back along the dark main street. Back at the apartment we were shown to our room and quickly got into bed. We could still hear quite a bit of activity around town as we slowly faded out.

 We got up a little late (for us) and showered and headed downstairs. We had breakfast with John and Cathy, eggs, rashers and toast and lots of coffee. We were off for a tour of the peninsula with Julie as the driver. She had been driving a short time, but a month or two on Irish roads is like five years in the US. Cathy, Julie and the two Americans got in the car and off we went. We headed for Healy Pass. Along the way we were treated to family history, stories about Julie's school, stories about the area and jokes about Americans (to be fair, there were some about the Irish as well). Healy Pass was windy and pretty much the same as our prior visit. You could see miles in each direction. One one side is Co. Cork and the other is Co. Kerry.

As we headed down the other side into Co. Kerry the road narrowed and headed into woods. We wove around the corners at a good rate while hearing about nosebleeds, Irish history and the Hag of Beara. We didn't stop to see the Hag of Beara. It is a large rock somewhere between Eyeries and Ardgroom. It is said to look like the face of a woman looking out to sea as she waits for the return of her husband, Manannan the God of the Sea. Along the way we heard stories about a swimming hole and were taken to a small lane and piled out of the car for a walk across a field. All of a sudden the ground opened up to a rocky pond fed by a small waterfall. The weather wasn't conducive to swimming and at any rate we'd neglected to bring swimming apparel. Along the way Julie got a phone call from a friend and chatted away in Irish as we zipped along. By now we'd rounded the point of the peninsula and were heading back towards Castletown. We made a stop at a park that had been recently pretty much clear cut. Julie was very upset about the situation and it did look pretty horrible. We walked along a path that had a lot of trees dragged along it. We could see a lighthouse in the distance and if you looked in that direction, things were very scenic. We took a quick look at Dunboy Castle, still undergoing renovation, but didn't go to very far down the road or visit the ruins of the O'Sullivan castle.

Back in Castletown is was nearing dinner. We took a walk around town to stretch the legs and to see a bit more of the layout than we'd been able to in the past visits. We walked along the waterfront and looked at the fishing boats and then headed East towards the church. There was quite a bit of activity and even more as we came back towards the square. A lot of men from the town were erecting a Christmas tree in the center of the square. Like any good community effort it required two or three to do the work and five or more to supervise and offer advice.  We watched for awhile and there was a lot of activity with a chainsaw that resolved without loss of limbs (except for the tree). We all gathered back in the restaurant for another excellent meal, but without as much festivities. Julie was heading off with friends for a night in Cork and Conor was meeting friends for more local activity later. We hung out at the table for awhile chatting and then went out for a walk and to see how the tree was faring.

There was now a lift of some kind and the tree was up. They were now attempting to string lights, decorate and get a star place atop. Again, it seemed to be a community effort with lots of stops for deep consideration.  They were pretty diligent about the whole thing, and we didn't see any Guinness breaks although there could be some pints strategically placed out of site. I imagine that there was some consumed at the completion of the job. The light was fading quickly, and the town was lit by strings of lights on the street and by the tree in the square. We took a few night pictures of the street, McCarthy's Bar and the now fully lit tree before calling it a night. During the night we could hear voices singing as people moved between pubs. We figured Conor was probably out there somewhere, but didn't know his singing voice. (Side note: Conor stayed with us for a few months during the summer  in 2008. I don't remember hearing his singing voice then either, but we did hear him say "what's the worst that could happen" a lot when faced with a new American experience.)

 Time to bid farewell to the Harringtons and Castletown and head for the dreaded Co. Kerry. We packed up, said our goodbyes and headed out early enough to arrive in Dingle for some food shopping. We were told everything shuts down from the 24th for a few days and we should stock up on food. We decided not to go over Healy Pass, but go back along the same route to Glengarriff and then to Co. Kerry via Kenmare. Along the way we made a few stops for pictures. One at an old stone cottage with a interestingly painted green mailbox. We'd do our best to avoid Killarney or at least stay on the main road and not get into the city. The day was pretty grey and cold and windy in any exposed area. Ladies view was pretty brown, but we still stopped as it is impressive at any time of year. We traveled over some very small roads and narrow passes in the Black Valley in the Killarney forest,  and finally made it into Dingle.

 In Dingle we pulled into the parking lot for the bigger market. It was packed both inside and out. We brought our own shopping bags to avoid being charged for bags (see travel tips). We had a good time wandering the aisles and getting reacquainted with Irish products. Shockingly Guinness is more expensive in Ireland than in the US. We found some nice pork chops, chicken, rashers, sausages and other breakfast items. The produce looked good and we added potatoes and carrots to the growing pile of groceries. Club soda and a variety of biscuits including McVities rounded out the purchases and we queued up for payment. Once through the line we carted everything to the car and piled in for the drive to Ballyferriter. Of course we took the long route around Slea Head. The weather was still grey and blustery, but we reveled in the familiar route and sites. Nothing had changed much and we soon we were passing Clougher Head and the Louis Mulcahy Pottery Studio and arrived at Suantra Cottages.

Suantra Cottages is our regular haunt when on the Dingle peninsula. It is located near Ballyferriter and has a beautiful view of the ocean. If you're looking for a small house with a kitchen to rent, you can't go wrong. There are three separate cottages with three rooms in each. They are identical, so it doesn't matter which one you get. You can easily sleep 5-6 people. Small fireplaces provide a good opportunity to explore peat as fuel. It smells wonderful and actually puts off a good amount of heat if you get it going well. There is also a bookshelf with a selection of books and maps and information about site seeing on the peninsula. There are several comfortable chairs for stretching out in front of the fire and reading as well as a small couch. There is a TV and small radio/cassette player. The TV reception isn't good and there are only three or four stations, but you didn't come here to watch the telly, now did you? The kitchen is well stocked and has a stove/oven and a small refrigerator. The bathroom is large and has a bathtub and shower, something you don't see often in rental cottages. There are radiators in each room for heat and I believe a portable one is available for localized heat if necessary. You do pay for your electricity, so don't get carried away and leave the heat on all day. You shouldn't really need the heat during the spring, summer and fall unless the temperature really drops. There are laundry facilities outside in a detached shed. You can take a nice walk West to Clougher Strand or off a nearby road through the fields and towards the ocean (see 12/24 below for this location). This was our third visit, and it feels like home and is highly recommended!
We pulled up and noticed a electric candle twinkling in the window. Inside we were amazed to find that our hostess Phil had decorated the cottage for Christmas. A small tree had ornaments and ribbons and garland and candles decorated pictures and mantle above the peat fire. As usual she'd stocked us with peat. The biggest welcome came when we headed for bed and dreading the cold, bundled in warm sweats only to find that she'd placed a mattress warmer in the bed and had it turned on so the bed was warm and toasty. This proved to be a most welcome addition while we were there because of the cold, damp and windy weather. We went into Ballyferriter for dinner at Tig an T-Saorsaig. This was the first time to this pub. They had B&B facilities upstairs. The bar area is small with an eating area further back. The food was good and the service excellent from various family members.

Christmas Eve day in Ireland! Things were open in Dingle, but we didn't do much shopping, mostly browsing. We asked about Wren's Day on the 26th and were assured that things were going on all day starting at 6 AM (not so much). We had apple cake, tiramisu and coffee in a small cafe, mostly to get warm. Shops were closing early so we headed back to Ballyferriter. Along the way we stopped at the gift shop on Slea Head. Strangely enough it was called Tig Slea Head. The car park and view point nearby is a must stop regardless of the weather. You can see the Great Blasket Island and the surf pounding below. Careful on the stairs as they are usually wet from the spray and very slippery as Karen found. They are particularly unyielding when you land on them. The weather had improved, still cold but the sun was out with interesting clouds. We found some good deals at Tig Slea Head including a lovely black and grey wool blanket. We also found a few more pieces of the John Hind Seanfhocal pottery. Still no teapot. If anyone has one to sell, let us know.

In the late afternoon we bundled up in warm clothes and headed out for one of our favorite spots on the peninsula. We walked West a short distance to a side road on the right. It is a narrow dirt lane between fences. It is a long walk out to the water. The roads bends a few times and then heads back towards the ocean. When you arrive there is an old pier with a boat ramp. It could still be in use, but is pretty battered. The light was starting to get really good, coming in low as the sun was sinking. We took a number of pictures in this area and went down into the area around the ramp. There was some interesting stuff washed up like old nets and plastic floats, but nothing worth carting home. We'd found some fossils in this area before and Karen immediately set out to find some more. Further along is an area that sticks out further into the ocean. It also has some large holes that go all the way down to the sea level and you can hear the water coming in and out with the waves and tide. These are not something you'd want fall into and they are hard to see until you're right on top of them, so proceed with caution. It also makes me a bit suspicious of the solidity of the rock beneath, and whether more holes might be ready to open up at a moments misstep.

  Karen continued her semi successful search for interesting rocks and fossils while the light remained. Further North was a small waterfall and open area with a rocky beach. The waves were somewhat shielded by large rocks and came in more softly onto the rocks. This allowed for a longer exposure on a tripod rendering the water in a milky looking way. It also worked on the waterfall. The rocks here were harder and not the fossil time like on the other side where Karen was foraging.

  The light began to drop off quickly and it became to dark for good pictures. As we turned back the sky really lit up with the setting sun. We shot a number of pictures on the way back of the changing colors and reflections of the sunset off the road and water. A full moon began its rise on the other side and began to cast its yellow orange light against the deep blue of the sky.

  We returned back to the cottage a bit chilled and hungry. We fixed dinner (good pork chops) and browsed through the TV channels while we waited for 9 PM to roll around. We'd found a flyer for Midnight Mass at the Ballyferriter church. The mass and Christmas carol singing were in Irish and we were looking forward to the experience. We arrived shortly before nine, as it appeared did everyone else. We found parking and went in. Standing room only. We hung out in back with the other ne'er-do-wells, hoodlums and reprobates, most of whom looked like they'd been rousted from the pub and were heading back as soon as this was over. Song sheets were handed out and we knew enough Irish to be able to pronounce the words and sort of sing along. The mass was short and after a few more songs, the crowd rapidly dispersed to their respective homes and pubs.
 

  Christmas day arrived. We had the tree and a few small gifts for each other, but basically being here was our present. We got up late, lounged around and finally got into the car and took a drive around Slea Head and up and down some back roads. We passed Rahanine Castle, went up on Clougher Head and wherever else we thought might be interesting. The roads were completely empty, no sign of life anywhere. We headed back to the cottage for some more relaxing. We cooked a roast chicken dinner with roasted veg, it was wonderful. Some more reading in front the fire and then TV browsing. We discovered Eastenders which we continued to watch on and off the rest of the trip.

  Got up early for St. Stephen's / Wren's day activities. Some breakfast and off to Dingle. The town was deserted, empty streets, pubs and everything closed. After sitting on a bench and contemplating our situation, we decided to pay a visit to Minard Castle. The castle lies above a bay with scenic cliffs surrounding it. Minard Castle is located 5km southwest of Annascaul village. at Lispole, turn right after O’Sullivans Pub (if it is still there). A short drive down the road takes you to a small bridge. As you cross over there is parking along the roadside. To the West is a sand and rock beach with the castle on a hill above. Not much is left of the castle but the walls. In 1650, the castle was destroyed by Cromwellian forces under Sadler and LeHunt, who set off explosive charges under its four corners killing all the occupants. The castle is not accessible and this time they mean it. It is not safe to enter or climb as the structure is very unstable.

  We woke to a grey and stormy day. We leisurely got up, breakfasted and then looked out the window at the rain. Eventually we got in the car and took some back routes looking for interesting new sights. We found the Gallurus Castle. Not really much to see as you couldn't get in and the rain was pretty effective in discouraging much poking around. We followed roads until they ended around Ballydavid and in the North and NE part of the peninsula. In better weather we'd have walked some of the paths and trails we found, but ambition was low. Back at Clougher Strand the waves were turning the ocean to foam that the wind blew up onto the car park. Big clumps of yellowish white fluff was so thick we had to run the windshield wipers and you had to be quick when taking a picture.  Near Dunquin we found the old graveyard and the grave to Tomas O'Crohan who wrote The Islandman. The book recounts life on the Great Blasket Island and is probably one of the best records of life on the island along with Peig Sayers autobiography Peig and Maurice O'Sullivan's Twenty Years A-Growing. The graveyard was overgrown with weeds, very lonely and quiet. It sits adjoining the Dunquin church, just off the main road. Peig Sayer's is buried in another graveyard near Dunquin with a beautiful view of the island. We picked up some snacks in a small store, our usual favorites. Some taytos, candy and soda. If the Irish can't make good potato chips, who can? Of course they do come up with some odd combinations. The bacon and cheese is a bit like pork rinds and cheez whiz, and the vinegar can be a bit overwhelming.

  We drove into Dingle to do some grocery shopping. As always we were struck by the variety of some of the vegetables and the color and freshness. The cabbage especially struck us and Karen snapped the picture to the left. People probably thought we were weird, taking pictures of veg in the store, but we just smile at them. The town was pretty quiet after last night's festivities. A number of empty and semi empty pints still stood guard along walls and in doorways. We looked through some shops that were open, but didn't find any great deals or things we couldn't live without. We did find a child's sweater with our future granddaughter's name on the label. We were not sure if this was a sign to buy it or just be amused. We agreed to think about it and return on our way out of town if we decided to purchase. We drove back to the cottage to do some laundry and wait out the rain. It never let up, so we stayed inside the rest of the day and did some cleanup and recharged our selves and our camera batteries in anticipation of better weather tomorrow.

  The weather looks better today. High clouds with patches of blue sky and sun. Still very cold and windy in exposed spots, but not the grey skies and rain of yesterday. This looked like a good day to hit a couple of our favorite spots for some pictures and poking around. We finished up breakfast, muesli today, taking a break from the eggs and rashers. We're still ambiguous about Irish orange juice. It has an odd taste, it could be the oranges or perhaps the processing. It isn't bad, just different. Packing is much different here, much more sensible. The plastic bottles are easily crushed and just about everything recycles. There are large bins in every town that people drop their glass and plastic into.

  Our first stop was on the way to Slea Head. Along the road a fence stretched off across a green field towards the ocean. Then off to what is probably our favorite spot on the peninsula. Just down from Tig Slea Head is a curve in the road. There are stone walls, the remains of a beehive hut and a roofless house or barn. In the background you can see Dunmore Head and the Great Blasket and the waves come in with lots of white caps. We started up at the viewpoint and worked our way down. We hopped the fence and walked out onto the hillside causing some concern to the sheep there. We also took a side road up the hill. The road is very steep and we wouldn't recommend this as it is hard to turn around or maneuver well. We got some dirty looks from one the the farmers living up there (sorry Sir) as we tried to turn around in his driveway and then realized it was the perfect photo spot. We were taking pictures out of the car window. If we'd had longer  I would have gotten out and tried some different angles. If you're going to do this, walk up there and ask permission if anyone is around.

  Variations on a theme. The photos below were taken of pretty much the same area at Cuminole North looking toward Dunmore Head with variations in camera placement. Some were on the main road and some were from above on a side road. The light was quite good at the time and often is at this location. We probably spent two to three hours here. All photos taken with a Nikon D80 with a Nikkor 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED or a Nikon 8400.

  Our next stop was the Kilmalkedar Monastic site. Kilmalkedar can be hard to find without a map. It is in the vicinity of the Gallarus Oratory, just a bit farther east. It has a short drive past a sheep pasture and minimal parking along the dirt road. There are several signs around the site telling about the buildings and history. The site contains a nice church with many fine carvings and stonework. The church has fairly intact walls, but no roof. You can enter the church through the front doorway and walk through the different rooms. Pay special attention to the stonework on the arches and windows. At certain times of day, the sun comes over the remaining arched roof supports in a very striking fashion. The church is surrounded by a graveyard that is fairly overgrown with trees, ivy, and tall grass. We walked around the graveyard and viewed the alphabet stone and sundial stone, stone cross, and ogham stone on the grounds. These are quite old and unique to the site. These are marked on one of the signs with a bit of history about their creation and use. The site was a real contrast with the overly pristine Gallarus Oratory. We preferred the wild look. There are a number of old stones, crypts, and other grave markers, some are still legible and some are quite new. Look for the black headstone near the pasture entrance with a rocket carved on it. This time out the ram in the field was particularly interesting as his horns had grown in a way that made him look like he was wearing spectacles. He was fairly compliant as a photo subject.

  We drove into Dingle to do some more shopping as the stores were fully open. We also needed to check our email and bank balance. We find that Internet Cafe's are perfect for quickly checking email and doing some bookkeeping. Much better than lugging around a laptop and looking for a connection. We spent some time and money at An Cafe Liteartha on various Irish language and history books. This is a great bookstore, find it and poke around while you're in Dingle. We spent a pleasant hour in O'Flaherty's Pub where the Wren's day parade had started. Lots of great memorabilia from the area on the walls.

  Back at Clougher Strand the waves had calmed considerably. The foam covering everything the day before had dispersed. The tide as out and we took a short walk on the beach and a few pictures. We headed back to the cottage and fixed dinner and settled in for the evening.

  To 2007-08 Part II