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2002 Journal |
2004 Journal |
2005 Journal
2007 Journal |
2011 Journal
If we've given a link to a B&B, we recommend it. It should
be easy to spot the ones we don't recommend.
Pricing given in either US dollars or Euros depending on our
whim.
Exchange rate in 2002 was about 1 to 1.
All images are the property of Karott.com,
please respect our effort in making them available.
You can purchase some of them
here or contact us for usage
information.
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2002
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View Map
of Route. Clicking on a number on the map will take you to that
location in the journal.
We started this trip with reservations in Dublin
for the first few days, in Galway for a few days and back in
Dublin for the final night. The rest of the time we planned on
calling ahead for a B&B reservation or just trusting to
luck. B&Bs are everywhere in Ireland, and chances are good
you'll find one unless there is a special event. We never had a
problem and probably could have not made the reservation in
Galway, but were playing it safe as the Oyster
Festival was happening while we were there. The
reservations when you arrive and depart are good for peace of
mind and lower stress.
Itinerary:
Sunday 9/15 - 9/17 - Portland,
OR to Dublin
Monday 9/16 - 'Round Dublin
Tuesday 9/17 - More 'Round
Dublin
Wednesday 9/18 - Dublin to
Killinierin, Co. Wexford
Thursday 9/19 - Killinierin,
Co. Wexford to Drinagh, Co. Wexford
Friday 9/20 - Drinagh, Co
Wexford to Hollywood, Co. Wicklow
Saturday 9/21 - Hollywood, Co.
Wicklow to Kilkenny and Cahir Co. Tipperary
Sunday 9/22 - Cahir Co.
Tipperary to Mallow Co. Cork
Monday 9/23 - Mallow, Co. Cork
to Killorglin, Co. Kerry
Tuesday 9/24 - Killorglin, Co.
Kerry to Dingle, Co. Kerry
Wednesday 9/25 - Dingle, Co.
Kerry
Thursday 9/26 - Dingle, Co.
Kerry to Ennis, Co. Clare
Friday 9/27 - Ennis, Co.
Clare to Salthill, Co. Galway
Saturday 9/28 - Salthill, Co.
Galway & Inishmore, Aran Islands
Sunday 9/29 - Salthill, Co.
Galway & Spiddal
Monday 9/30 - Salthill, Co.
Galway to Athlone, Co. Roscommon
Tuesday 10/1 - Athlone, Co.
Roscommon to Slane, Co. Meath
Wednesday 10/2 - Slane, Co.
Meath to Kells, Co. Meath
Thursday 10/3 - Kells, Co.
Meath to Dublin
Friday 10/4 - Dublin to
Portland, OR
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Portland, OR to Dublin
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Sunday 9/15
Got in at 2:30pm local time after a long plane
trip from Portland, OR. Sat on the tarmac for about an hour or
more with no bathroom break. Got some good travel advice from a
nearby passenger who recommended the Wicklow area highly. Made a
mad dash through the airport for a restroom. Nothing until you
reach the baggage area. Collected bags and picked up rent a car
after VERY long walk to the car park (w/bags). Note: Don't
be cheap, rent a cart for a Euro or two, you'll thank yourself
later.
Harrowing drive on "wrong side" of street after
picking up our car. Couldn't get the car into reverse for 5
minutes when trying to turn around to go back to the turnout we
missed. Turns out there was a little sleeve on the column that
had to be pulled up to go into reverse. Not intuitive! The
owners manual in the glove compartment was for a automatic, we
had a manual. Note: Rent your car online prior to leaving,
it is cheaper and easier. Get a manual if you can drive one,
they are a lot cheaper than an automatic.
Reached Avoca House B&B in Drumcondra (between
the airport and Dublin). Host Jack met us and took us to very
nice room with high ceilings, wood floors and well lit (1 double
bed and 1 Single & bathroom with tiny shower). Note:
Irish bathrooms are usually small, tiled in very
colorful/interesting tiles and did I mention small? Be a good
traveler and have your own wash cloth and hand towel.
Hairdryer may or may not be available. It's easier to buy one
there and travel with it then worry about adapters and
compatibility. You'll make an enemy of your host very quickly
by plugging a 110 hairdryer in a 220 outlet.
Jack gave us instructions to the nearest pub for
some food and relaxation. Fagans
was just down on main road and around the corner. Walked
there about 5:00pm and had dinner (very good) and a Guinness. Nice, family friendly, not
smoky with high ceilings, greenery and lots of brick and wood.
Varied menu that has continued to improve. They pour a good pint
as well. Walked back and "fell" into bed about 6:15pm and slept
until 3:30am - awake for 1.5 hours. It took a couple of days to
adjust to the time difference.
TOP | BACK
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Trip Soundtrack
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'Round Dublin
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| Monday 9/16
Got up at 8:00am for a shower and breakfast. Breakfast was full
Irish - lots of food, "rashers" (bacon to us, but better) and
sausages were delicious! Karen didn't care for the black and
white pudding, but Scott liked it and had double rations for the
rest of the trip. The white pudding similar to sausage, while
the black pudding has a much more iron type flavor.
Barry's Gold Tea is quite good although we needed the
coffee kick and had a cup or two of Bewley's. Met a couple with
two girls from Australia on a six week holiday and had a good
chat after breakfast.
 Off on #11 bus to Dublin City
Center about 11:15am. Got off bus on O'Connell street past the
bridge, wandered over to Trinity
College. Took tour of Book
of Kells. Quite impressive setup with videos of how it was
created as well as samples of work, then looked at the three
ancient manuscripts; Book of Durrow, Book of Armagit, Book of
Kells. Went upstairs afterwards to the Trinity College library.
Scott had to be restrained from hopping the barrier and leafing
through the shelves of books. Busts of famous Irish authors are
interesting as are some of the displays down the center aisle.
Shopping around city - "Lush.UK"
store for bath & body products. Scott had some definite
impressions of Lush recorded
here.  Caught
the bus to Jameson's
Distillery, took it too far and ended up at Kilmainham
Gaol. Took some pictures, but not the tour, stupid us (we
went on the next trip in 2004). Got directions back to Jameson.
Note: Kilmainham Gaol is one of the Duchas
Heritage Sites and you can purchase the pass here (see travel tips page
for more info).
 Got off bus and walked
about 3/4 miles to Jameson's
Distillery and went on the tour. It was fairly interesting
and smelled great! Karen was chosen to receive "special" tour
tasting. Got to taste four Irish whiskeys and two others to show
the differences. one American (Jim Beam) and one Scotch. Karen
picked the Powers Special Whiskey as the best. She got a
diploma! Went to Distillery shop and bought some Powers Special
and glasses for our "pub" at home, as well as small assorted
whiskey bottles as gifts.
Wandered back a 1/2 mile to Brazen
Head Pub (oldest in Dublin, 1198)
 and had
a and took pictures in and around the place.
Wandered around Dublin city center and Temple
Bar (seemed seedy but probably better at night and under
the influence). Couldn't find a empty bus so we started to walk
back towards Drumcondra. Stopped at a pub (Parnell
Mooney) for a rest, but did not figure out how seedy it
was until two ladies of questionable reputation entered, so we
shoved off. Evidently it is the premier punk pub in Dublin.
Still wandered the streets of Dublin trying to find a bus. Ended
up eating dinner at the Kingfisher.
Scott had fried stingray (the wing part). The place was okay,
but nothing to rave about (evidently one of the top 100
restaurants in Dublin, so what do we know?). Karen's club
sandwich had real turkey on it, but she got heartburn anyway. We
finally found a bus stop after walking over three miles. Got on
the bus and it took us about 3/4 miles to our stop, we were
almost there anyway. Figures!
Dragged ourselves to the B&B and fell into bed - again!
Dublin is for dreamers, artists and writers (in spite of what Mike Scott says
about
Dublin (lyrics) in
City Full of Ghosts (Dublin)) and Scott had strange dreams
during the night. Might have been the stingray? Very narrative
dream involving some of the sites we'd seen, Celtic and Norse
mythology, a smart aleck cat and a large clockwork object hidden
underneath St. Patrick's Cathedral. It all worked out to a
fairly complete story. It was all written out that morning and
over the next couple of days. Perhaps we'll post it sometime.
TOP | BACK
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More 'Round Dublin
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Tuesday 9/17
Got up at 8:00 and had another full Irish breakfast. Caught bus
to town across from Fagans.
Went to Central Cyber Cafe
on Grafton
Street to try to upload pictures, but could not get FTP to
Karott.com working. Checked email, Colleen and David wrote
(Scott's sister and brother). David asked if we find anything
"Sheehan" to pick it up for Julie.
  We bought
City Bus Tour tickets
on the "On & Off" tour bus. 1st stop we departed on was
St. Stephen's Green. Walked the entire round (1 mile)
trying to find the "Blind Park" specifically designed for blind
people. Never did see it, no pun intended. Lots of interesting
statuary, architecture and people in and around the green. This
would be a good place to hang out for a day and read Ulysses if
the weather was good. Headed back to bus stop to rejoin tour.
Took a few pictures of Georgian doors across from the green.
 
 Rejoined passing tour bus and were
left off in Dublin city center (across from Trinity College).
Saw a wee man playing the bodhran (Irish drum) on the statue of Molly Malone. He saw us looking
at him and pointing the camera and came over to us saying he'd
get out of the way so we could photograph the statue and it
won't cost ya nuttin' Karen told him she'd rather have a photo
of him with the statue playing the bodhran. So he sat back down,
played - smiled for the camera. We contributed anyway.
 Next stop
on tour was St. Patrick's Cathedral. Went in the front
door, paid fee (very inexpensive), and OH MY what a gorgeous
cathedral! They permitted pictures (you need a tripod or monopod
as the light is very low), so we wandered all the way around and
took lots.  Bought a
holy card and holy medal of St. Patrick in the gift shop. Walked
around the entire large city block complex to the back side,
took more pictures. Bathroom is the "Black Door" across the
street from main entrance. Not really labeled, clean or large,
but functional.
Rejoined passing tour bus and we're off. Took the self guided tour, it is quite
expensive, but they try to placate you with a "free" pint in
the Gravity Bar at the conclusion. Very high
tech tour, didn't explain the process very well. Lots of
electronic images and froofy stuff, but no meat or
 substance
to it The Jameson's tour
was much more charming and detailed. Went to Gravity Bar for "free" pint, they put a
shamrock in the foam while pouring, how cute. The view of the
City is beautiful and we took some pictures. Went to Guinness Store House and bought stuff for
our future basement "pub" and for fun.
Walked a long way back to another bus to finish tour and ended
up on a "Crafter's" street, nothing interesting, expensive
tourist stuff. Bought Jameson's toffees from Butler's
Candy Store for our friends the Butlers. Went in search of
dinner. Tried O'Neills,
very picturesque but too hot, smoky, crowded and expensive. Took
pictures of the
Parnell Monument. Caught bus back to Drumcondra (past the
inauspicious Parnell Mooney pub).
 Ate at Fagans
and played cribbage with Guinness cards , keeping score on a piece of
paper bag. Dinner was good, inexpensive, lots of food, too much
actually. Walked through the park across the street. Lovely with
river running through it. Got back to the B&B about 7:30pm,
went to room for the night.
TOP | BACK
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Dublin to Killinierin, Co. Wexford
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Wednesday 9/18
Got up at 7:15am and breakfast at 8:30am. Full Irish again and
good as ever. Audrey, our hostess, took us outside to pet Mandie
the pom (dog), Audrey was sneaking a cigarette and started
talking - and talking, very interesting and entertaining! What a
hoot! Showed her pictures of Oregon and talked about her
vacations and where she goes. Asked her advise on getting a room
for one night throughout Ireland, and how to be not too
"American". This is in the hopes of being inoffensive guests.
This is when we received the wash cloth advise. Fortunately we
had our own.
Started driving out of Dublin towards Wicklow at
11:15am. Hot, sunny weather and Scott worked hard and did a
great job navigating the car through traffic, roundabouts and
tiny little roads, narrow enough for one car (according to
Karen), but had fast traffic in both directions.
We stopped in Dalkey for drinks of lemonade and
orange beverage probably Club soda, very tasty!  Drove for a couple of hours on narrow country
roads and went approximately 30 miles. How sad. Stopped at
Glendalough
and toured grounds, graveyard and ruins of monastery. Beautiful
site, gorgeous surroundings and wonderful ruins! Took lots of
pictures. We did not take the walk up to the upper lake and  St. Kevin's Cell, that was saved
for another trip. This is another Duchas
Heritage site. I believe we tried to purchase a pass here,
but they were out of them. We were told we could go ahead and go
on the tour for no cost as we were going to purchase the cards
somewhere else anyway. Gotta' love that attitude and trust, we
ran into it all over Ireland (yes we did purchase the pass
later).
Wandered back out to main road and from Arklow,
Co. Wicklow, called the next B&B in Wexford. We had a book
we'd picked up somewhere of
farmhouse B&Bs in Ireland. Arrived at the farmhouse
B&B (Woodland House) at the middle of a narrow road in the
middle of the country. (what else did you expect from a
farmhouse?) Philomena the hostess was a little apprehensive and
asked if we were Americans. Scott replied "Guilty" Evidently we
didn't sound American when we'd called. She let us in anyway.
She showed us a room with a double bed, very large and beautiful
with a nice bathroom. She then showed us an "upgrade" room with
a huge bed and balcony overlooking the garden. Karen asked the
price for the rooms and we decided on the first. Cheap
Americans! We brought up our bags, had tea, met another couple
from Sommerset, England by way of Wales. She reminded me of a
chirping bird. We took off and had an average meal at
Pooles Porter House in Gorey. The wasn't the same as in Dublin. A charcoal
flavor aftertaste. Somewhat reminiscent of sucking on a
briquette, perhaps a bad keg or near the bottom.
 Getting
back to the B&B brought a rude surprise, the mattress
predated the house. It was shaped something like this --__--
(see image at right). Head and feet were well supported, the
middle, not so much. A fitful night of attempted sleep resulted
in a late night route planning session at 3am. A magazine led us
to believe there was a music festival called "Music under the
Mountain" in Hollywood, Co. Wicklow. We decided to backtrack to
give it a go. The attraction was the appearance of Shane McGowan, the man, the legend, the...
well words fail me, just be careful clicking on the link, don't
look directly at the picture.
 Overall
the house was long on looks and short on comfort. It was a
little overdone, and the dolls on the stairs were a little to0
precious.
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Killinierin, Co. Wexford to
Drinagh, Co. Wexford
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Thursday 9/19
The breakfast was good, ordered from a menu, accompanied by
old hymns and a rousing elevator version of La Bomba. Hyacinth
(Philomena) walked by and said good morning without really
meeting anyone's eyes and walked out. She couldn't be bothered
with any of us or the money portion of the transaction. Her cat
thought the same as us, as it hopped into the car and attempted to escape the "House of
Froofyness" We tossed the cat out, and we were off. Took off to
Killinierin down the lane to find Mort O'Sullivan, supposed to
know a lot about O'Sullivan's in the area (a family name for
Karen). No luck, Hyacinth's directions were suspect as was her
genealogy information. Her breakfast was good, but we also
suspected she thought rather well of herself and "country
estate". Bought some bottled water and off again.
Headed for Enniscorthy. Found a 1798 visitor
center, got directions & wrong change. Another tip, count
your change. Irish shopkeepers are a wee bit deficit in this
department. It can't be dishonesty because the amount can be
over or under. Perhaps they are still not accustomed to the
Euro. Went to the Library
to use internet, no card reader for the memory card. Vinegar
Hill was the next stop because Karen's great-great-grandfather
was born nearby. One lane road to a stone monument. (unreadable)
Hiked up to the tower through the gorse
bushes. Hard to imagine soldiers charging through the stuff, it
is wicked, spiky stuff and head high, nice yellow flowers
though. Good view, bad bee, time to go. Bee did not pursue us.
Left Enescorthy for Wexford. Trying to find Killiane Castle B&B. All the way down
to Rosslare, turned around and headed back, finally saw the sign
and headed off a side road to the castle. Back and forth from
Rosslare harbor to Castle for money and phone. Texaco phone
didn't work (twice). Finally secured reservation and went to  Killiane Castle B&B. 14th century
castle attached to 17th century farmhouse. They also raise
horses. Nice hosts, great place, took pictures around the castle
and headed for Wexford town and dinner. Up, down and around
Wexford in search of internet cafe and camera shop. No luck on
memory card. Pretty town, very hilly. Dinner at seafood place
next to "no-phone-Texaco". Back to castle to play cribbage in
recliner chairs on the lawn under the trees, and watch the
horses play in the meadow as the sun slowly set. Called David
(Scott's brother) to gloat. Not a very long conversation as he
had to go to WORK! Back to the room where Karen took advantage
of the bathroom, tub and a Lush bath fizzy. Evidently the aroma
attracts bugs as well, because Scott had to terminate a rather
large wasp who came in through the open window. Much insect
troubles today. Excitement over, and off to bed.
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Drinaugh, Co Wexford to
Hollywood, Co. Wicklow
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Friday 9/20
 Had a great breakfast at Castle B&B (French pancakes and eggs
with salmon). Left to drive thru to Hollywood for the Music
Under the Mountain festival. Took many roadside pictures of
farmland and valley in Carlow and Wicklow. Baltinglass
Abbey was just on the other side of the stream along the
road. Very large, partially restored abbey with full arches.
Lots of pictures. It came up on us as a surprise, no signs, just
off the road. Teenage boys and girls were in the back of the
ruins smoking and chatting each other up and possibly snogging.
 Got to
Hollywood, stopped at the Hollywood Inn where the Music Under
the Mountain festival was to occur that evening. Parked in
front, and went in to enquire and have a pint. Confirmed the
festival was happening. The large banner in front was a good tip
off as were the flyers on every post and wall.
Drove into Blessington (14k away) to find a phone
to call for a B&B. Also visited an Internet Cafe (just
opened that day) with a very young owner who was kind enough to
take the time to help us take the photos off the memory stick
and burn them onto CD. He only charged us $5! We wish him and
his new venture the very best of luck.
 Found the
Chestnut
House B&B, hostess Agnus really was very warm and
accommodating. House was spare in decor but room was more than
adequate in size of both bed and bath. What a view out onto a
meadow of sheep! Off to dinner at The Thatch in Ballymore
Eustace. Limited menu and unimpressive. A burger for Karen and
drab curry for Scott. More Guinness research (still good). The
waiter sang along to MTV on the telly. Between the bellowing
he worked a wee bit. Later the singing became a lengthy
discussion with a customer swearing with every other word. We
took our leave.
Off to Hollywood Inn and the Music Under the
Mountain festival. The
Kane Sisters came in shortly after us. After a game or two
of cribbage, we looked forward to the 8:30 start (as posted
everywhere around the place). We sat in the pub close to the
door out to the tented music area. 9pm rolled around then 9:30,
cigarette smoke building. The
Kane Sisters walked out, we waited, no music (sound checks
galore). No Shane
McGowan, more Guinness, more smoke. Inquired as to the
actual  start time, any minute we were
told, would you like to pay and come into the tented area? We'll
wait until some actual music starts we thought. At 9:50pm we had
our fill of second hand Irish smoke and decided that $30 was to
much to pay for an alleged music festival. We left without
hearing any music. For a more detailed account visit
here.
We went down the lane and snuck into a graveyard
and took pictures under the full moon. Cheaper and more
memorable (less smoky too). Went to bed and watched part of a
very bad film with Gerard Depardieu.
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Hollywood, Co. Wicklow to Kilkenny and Cahir
Co. Tipperary
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Saturday 9/21
Awoke at 7:15 - Breakfast at 8:30, full Irish sans the black
and white pudding (Scott was sad). Very good altogether in spite
of the missing pudding, and the hostess very friendly,
twittering about clearings, cleaning and chatting as we ate.
Started out heading back to Ballymore Eustace to try and find
picturesque hayfield we'd seen the day before so we could take
some pictures in the morning light. Could not get any without
wires and power towers. Found a glen overlooking a lake with
sheep dotting the landscape. Parked and walked 1/4 mile along
the road back to glen to take pictures.
Drove down a "yellow" road toward Dunlavin
until halfway down the road it abruptly ended with road signs to
go the other way. Took another "yellow" road through Dunlavin
and eventually into Kilkenny. Created a new term for tailgaters
- bum-crawlers!
 Got into Kilkenny, parked across
from St. Kieran's College at top of town and
 walked
back into the city center. Stopped at first roundabout in an
Internet cafe to upload picture to website. Took a look at the
outside of Kilkenny
Castle. Wanted to much to get in and couldn't bring pack
into castle. Nice exterior, kept going. Went looking for St.
Someone's ruined stone building (St. Canice). Went up John St.
Wrong street, back down. Bought sandwiches and up to High St.
Saw the outside of the church. Climbed the Round
Tower, 110 very narrow steps. Great view from the top!
 Ran into
Black Abbey as we were returning to city center. It was
FREE! Great stained glass and carvings of the Trinity. Church
was open for worshipers and tourists. Took pictures
surreptitiously trying not to disturb anyone (bad us).
Back to the
car, we found it! Left Kilkenny for Cahir via Clonmel in
search of laundry facilities. No laundry to be found. Went to
Cahir to find a B&B. No luck, many booked already. Got a
pint to contemplate the situation. Called another B&B,
success! Right around the corner, up the hill ("are you writing
this down Mr. Atherton," asked the hostess?) Wandered up a long
hill and finally found the
Hollymount
House B&B
(guess we should have written it down). Nice place with a great
view of the city. Very nice room with a sliding glass door out
to a patio with the view.
 Went in
search of food, hostess recommend a place or two in town. Ugh,
bad pseudo Italian eatery, no atmosphere, second recommendation
booked solid. Went down the road a long way and back, still no
luck. Chinese restaurant under construction. Scott suspect's the
real reason there was a famine was lack of restaurants. Finally
found a place staring us in the face (bad signage, it is either
none or poor visibility). Food was decent but bland. Steak and
salmon with lots of boiled potatoes. Karen ordered a glass of
wine and they brought her a small, one glass bottle with a twist
top. Note: bring hot peppers, hot sauce, black pepper, and
soy sauce to Ireland on next trip.
Back to B&B, took some pictures of the city at night and
off to bed. No bees or wasps, firm bed, Oh Joy!
TOP | BACK
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Cahir Co. Tipperary to Mallow Co. Cork
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Sunday 9/22
Good full Irish breakfast the next morning.
Hostess Margerat Neville, very warm and friendly. The
rashers were especially tasty. Almost hated to go, but we
forged on.
  Drove
into Cahir to see Cahir
Castle. Nicely kept up and you could actually climb many
of the staircases and the rooms were restored. Great place for
pictures. Nice views of the city from castle walls. Good short
presentation of the history of the castle. Found the stairs down
to the "dungeon" rooms in the tower interesting. Very cold, damp
and uncomfortable place to be kept.
Left Cahir after a brief wander through a tacky tourist shop
across the street. No need for stuffed leprechauns or
shillelaghs with slightly sticky lacquered finish. Nothing awful
enough as a gift for Scott's brother David. Must exceed the
crassness of the wallet made of preserved frog from Mexico
or the coyote skull medicine stick. The search continues.
Headed off through Clonmel looking for B&W film. Went to a
super market and shopped. Bought lots of drinks for the road and
misc. other interesting food bits. No film.
  Drove to
Cashel to see the Rock
of Cashel. Parked in a lot down the street a long way and
walked about a mile to the rock. Stopped in a store at the base
and they had B&W film! Bought two rolls at an exorbitant
price. Began the ascent up the Rock.
Admission to the site was $4.40 each. We'd been to so many
Heritage sites and figured we'd hit a few more
 so we
bought the Duchas
Heritage Passes ($20 each, senior and family passes
available). We should have purchased this in Dublin and save a
lot of money. You can buy the pass at any site that accepts it.
We also purchased a book on the Rock of Cashel and the nearby Hore
Abbey.
The history of the Rock of Cashel according to Scott. Some
monks found a big rock, piled a lot of other rocks on and around
it. Lived there for four or five hundred years, and left when
too many of the rocks fell down.
 It was a pretty cool pile of rocks. There is
an informative talk and walk through of the site or you can
wander on your own. The site is surrounded by a rock wall (big
surprise) with a fairly substantial graveyard. The markers are
distinct and interesting. The interior has many nooks and
crannies that hold good photo opportunities. Look at the details
on the columns and arches.
 The trek down to Hore
Abbey involved fence jumping and cow plop hopping and more
climbing. Coming out of the entrance to the Rock
of Cashel, turn right and head down hill. You can see Hore
Abbey at the bottom across the field. Cross the road and
look for a path over the stone wall. Watch for cow droppings and
the possibility of a bull in the field. We found Hore
Abbey to be more interesting than the Rock. Very cool
ruins altogether. Lots of photo opportunities. It is amazing how
much time the Irish devoted to religious stone piling. 'Hore' is
thought to derive from 'iubhair' - yew tree. The former
Benedictine abbey at Hore was given to the Cistercians by
Archbishop David MacCearbhaill, who later entered the monastery.
He endowed the Abbey generously with land, mills and other
benefices previously belonging to the town.
Left Cashel with ice cream from the little shop down the hill.
Scraped the cow excrement from our shoes and headed for Mallow.
 Stopped in Michalstown
(home of caves and cheddar) to reserve a B&B. Got one near
Mallow on the first try! Celebrated with Chinese takeaway right
across from the pub/undertaker (makes sense to combine them if
you think about it). Note: 19 Euro buys a lot of food, enough
for a small army. These are not US portions. No wonder they were
looking at us strangely. Food was OK, overly sweet, lots of
gloopy sauce and not the extra hot we ordered. The Irish seem to
fear hot food and fear for those who order it. Ate along the
road with a view of clouds, fields, and horses.
 Continued on to Mallow with a hay roll
detour. No, not that kind, it was to take pictures of a hillside
covered with hay rolls. Arrived at Pathsmore House B&B.
Shown to room. Scott embarked on a fly killing spree in the
room. Current count is 15. Discovered open window in bathroom,
looked out to stable below. No mystery as to where the flies are
coming from. Closed the window as surely the cows, horses and
assorted poo is the culprit. Room a bit dingy, no TV, radio or
amenities except for a plug-in tea pot and some tea bags. The
hostess reminded Karen of a nun/teacher she'd had in third
grade.
Off to the pub for more research and to look for the "marsh" in
Mallow. Found the Olde Fiddle Bar and settled in for a listen to
another round of Irish swearing. Interesting character wandered
in with some bags, ordered a large whisky, downed it and
wandered out. Looked like the wife had sent him out for a few
items and he'd taken the opportunity for a quick one.
Breakfast uninspiring, full Irish but nothing exciting. Perhaps
the flies in the room took the charm off. Bacon slightly off or
overly aged as well.
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Mallow, Co. Cork to Killorglin, Co. Kerry
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Monday 9/23
Left B&B to do laundry in Mallow.
Found a small shop across from the Olde Fiddle Bar. A few
battered machines, but all to ourselves. Played some cribbage on
the wood bench while waiting for the clothes to finish. Scott
wandered up the street looking for snacks and had to settle for
crisps and candy in a small shop. Laundry finished, folded and
packed, so off again.
 Took N20 out to Cork.
Just off highway was a ruined something visible in the distance.
A road sign said Mourne Abbey, so off we trekked to find it.
Came to the first split in the road, no directions.
 Chose
left and went a few miles, could see the abbey through the trees
and hedgerow, but it seemed to be getting further away.
Beautiful country around there as you can see. Turned around and
went the other way at the split. We definitely had to travel on
"black" roads to get there, very bumpy. 30 minutes later, much
winding around we ended up at a farm. Brazenly we drove through
an open gate and parked. Stepped out and over the electric fence
lying on the ground buzzing and popping. Great view of the
valley below with sun shining, very blue skies and fluffy white
clouds. Lots of adventures roaming around what was left of the
ruins. Cows were sheltering in part of the walls. It appears
that this is not Mourne Abbey, that is elsewhere in the area.
We've been kindly informed by a reader that this looks more like
Barrett's Castle also known as Castle More. There don't appear
to be any other pictures of it on the web. According to the info
about the castle it is a 13th century hall-tower on the site of
an earlier enclosure castle. The official location is about four
miles south of Mallow off
N20. Situated on the commanding high elevation above the River
Clyda. The walls are still standing, but from the manner in
which they were built and the decayed condition of the building,
it would seem that the castle was erected at a very early date.
Possibly it’s the ruins of a 13th century hall-tower on the site
of an earlier enclosure castle. The first of the Barrett family
is said to have come to Ireland with
Strongbow about the end of the 12th century. We guess that
another attempt to find Mourne Abbey is in order next time
around.
  
Traveled on towards Killorglin
to the start/stop of the Ring of Kerry to travel the ring the
next day. Called the
Dungeel farmhouse B&B from Macroom. Macroom was, in
Scott's memory, a place where there was a stone circle, none
found though. Looked like a nice town. We'll have to go back
sometime.
Stopped in Cork to try to find an Internet cafe to dump the
memory card to CD, buy B&W film and get lunch. Had a
difficult time finding any one to help with the memory card.
Either the technology is new or Sony memory cards are to
proprietary. Good thing it is a borrowed camera. People were
very friendly and helpful (as they could be anyway). Wandered
around Cork a bit, enjoyed the town, made note to come back
another time when we had more time.
  Headed off
to the
Dungeel Farmhouse. It was 4km outside of Killorglin,
about the time we thought to look, there it was. Old white
farmhouse on a hill with sheep in the meadow in front. It
overlooked a private section of the river Laune, a salmon
infested area according to the two French gentleman who had been
coming there for 28 years for the fishing.
 Nice room,
but a bit damp and mildewed smelling. Not unexpected in an old
stone building. Had dinner in a pub in Killorglin.
Nice ambiance, good food, Irish stew and smoked salmon.
Admired the Puck statue commemorating the story that a
stampeding herd of
mountain goats warned the locals of the invasion by the
Cromwellian forces. The Puck
Fair is an annual and popular event. Purchased a Co. Kerry
flag in a shop.
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Killorglin, Co. Kerry to Dingle, Co. Kerry
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Tuesday 9/24
 Breakfast was good,
talked to an Aussie couple about their stay in Milton Keynes and
daughter's stay in France. Met Charley and the rest of the
folks/host/hostess/family. He told us about going to town with
four and three in his pocket and if he met the queen he wouldn't
give her a glance. Took two rabbits to town for extra money. Had
three pints, took a girl for a dance and dinner with the money.
What a character, told other stories of growing up in the area
as well.
  Left
B&B at 10:30am to start on the
Ring of Kerry circuit. What a magnificent drive and view.
No particular problems with the traffic or tour buses. Just
drive smart and stay calm and you'll be fine. We pulled into a
little town called Cahirciveen and wandered down some side
streets in search of a restroom. While Karen checked out the
facilities, Scott took the picture of the carrots at a small
market. They were really as big and orange as the picture shows.
We're sure they tasted as good as they looked.
 Just off the route we discovered
Ballycarbery
Castle and the
Cahergal stone fort in Cahirciveen. Karen stayed in the car at the
stone fort. Scott walked up the hill and to the entrance. Ballycarbery
Castle was easily visible. The fort was almost perfectly
round with inside stairs to the top of a 5-6 foot wide wall.
There was an inner stone circle with a much lower wall shown in
the picture to the left. It is amazing how well the stones are
fit together. From the top an even better view of the castle and
surrounding countryside. Evidently there is another stone fort
called Leachanbuile just a bit further that is even more
impressive. We'll have to find that one on another trip.
  We then
drove a short distance to Ballycarbery
Castle, parked and hopped over the electric fence after
petting some cow noses. Again a trek through cow poo to the
castle. You can climb up and over much of the castle. Lots of
ivy and plants growing in and amongst the rock. The wall at the
right was covered in ivy and had been for a good many years as
indicated by the size of the trunk on the ivy. Good photo
opportunities, especially if you stayed until sunset.
 Wonderful views as we
drove around the Ring of Kerry. Narrow roads and very few tour
buses. We were going in the same direction as the buses although
going in the opposite direction would not have been a problem.
We stopped at one location with a nice view and several statues.
An accordion player was entertaining the tour bus passengers.
Stopped for lunch in Sneem
at one of the small pubs, it could have been the Wrestler's Inn
or the Blue Bull. Had roast chicken and shepherds pie and wrote
a few postcards home. Headed back towards Killarney and took the
shortcut skipping Kenmare this time. Trying to make good time as
we wanted to be in Dingle that evening. Lovely views over
mountains, lakes and forest up to Killarney. Hit traffic and
congestion in Killarney and didn't stop until we were clear of
it. Drove up to Tralee and then headed west to Camp
then Anascaul and then Dingle. Long drive over narrow roads.
More great views and pictures.
Arrived in Dingle in the late afternoon and started calling
around to find a B&B. Began with Rick
Steves' recommendations from his
Ireland book .
All were booked except the last listing in the book, Kellihers
Ballyegan House had an opening. The rate quoted in the
book was incorrect and had evidently been a problem for the
host. The rate was a bit higher than we'd paid before, but well
worth it. Nice rooms on Upper Johns St. up the hill a way
from An
Droichead Beag (Small Bridge Bar) one of
the easy to find landmarks. The window overlooked the harbor in
the distance. The sun was setting as we looked out the window,
beautiful view. The host was full of information and advice. We
decided to stay for two days instead of one and made
arrangements. We unloaded and went out for some music and
possibly food.
 Set up camp in An
Droichead Beag. Music was to start at 9pm. Somewhat
skeptical based on the prior experience in Hollywood. Scott made
a food excursion after the bartender told us he only had a few
packets of crisps, no food. No restaurants or snack places open,
the quick mart up the street was open with a choice of ice
cream, crisps or pastries. Scott returned with a couple of
packets of crisps/chips (interesting ones) and called it dinner.
Smoke increased as the tourists poured in (of course we were not
those). Shortly after we realized we'd made a dreadful mistake,
it was a tourist trap. The music was OK but nothing exciting. We
lasted about 35 minutes after the music started at 9:45pm (note
the discrepancy in start time vs. actual time, very common). The
final nail in the coffin was a group of five young German
tourists dressed all in black who decided to share our corner
table. Fully outfitted in matching black turtlenecks and
cigarettes. After about 25 minutes of chain smoking, sullen
attitudes and blowing smoke into our corner, we surrendered the
table to them. We staggered out the door, coughed, choked and
wandered back up the hill, hoping we had enough wind left to
walk back to the B&B. We stopped and watched some cows in
the moonlight and then headed the rest of the way up the hill.
Clothes reeking, hair even worse, we tumbled into the spacious
bed.
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Dingle, Co. Kerry
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Wednesday 9/25
Woke at about 8am, showered, dressed and off to breakfast.
Wonderful full Irish breakfast with homemade brown bread and
jam. Hosts were busy serving and chatting up the guests as we
ate. Hanna baked the brown bread that morning, delicious and
gave us an extra serving!
  Off
around the Dingle Peninsula. The drive is even more spectacular
than the Ring of Kerry, is that possible? Rick Steves does know
something after all (we have not been impressed with the
recommendations we followed to date). Stopped at several 2 Euro
Sheds (what we're calling the small fee collecting stations at
the tourist sites, many are closed and you can walk in, most are
around 2 Euros to get in) to see touristy things. The stone
beehive huts and the Dunbeg
stone settlement are fascinating when you can see
how and where people
  lived
hundreds or more years ago. We also visited the Famine
Cottage a bit further down the road. It is a healthy climb
but worth the effort, very sobering to read some of the
information. There is a outstanding view from the cottage. You'd
have to be starving to leave this place!
  Continued
on to Slea Head, Dunquin, the Blasket Island Centre and the
beach where Ryan's Daughter was filmed. Slea Head is wild and
wonderful. If we could have a house anywhere we'd like one
there. Probably only in the summer as the winter winds are
fierce and cold. Dunquin is where many of the Blasket Islanders
settled. It is small, charming and quiet. There are great views
of the Great Blasket from this area. We paid a visit to the
Blasket Island Centre. The film presentation there is excellent
in showing how the people lived and their history. The exhibits
are interesting. Walk around the outside of the Centre. There
are great views of the island from the back of the facility.
There is a small book area with all the books written by the
Blasket Island writers.
Make sure you pick up at least one while you are there, or get
one here. We recommend
Islandman,
Peig
and
Twenty Years A-Growing
as a good start.
 Stopped in
Ballyferriter for lunch at Tigh Peig (no longer open). Karen
said it was the best tomato soup she'd ever had. Scott had a
huge sirloin burger, also one of the best ever! Nice warm pub
with large wood bar and open windows. A cool breeze was blowing
through and the day was warm and sunny. A good memory!
  Headed
further around the peninsula loop and found a scenic little
stream with sheep near. Took a few pictures. Pointed the
car back towards Dingle reluctantly and headed back up and over
to Dingle. Freshened up in the room and then walked down to
Dingle harbor to watch the sunset and the boats. Nets were
spread out along the quay. We walked out on the pier between
fishing boats, and then out to the harbor edge. Took quite a few
pictures, and watched as the sun sank lower and lower.
 
 
 Off for a bit of shopping and the inevitable
famine relief search. Ended up at Lord Bakers. Very upscale and
nice place, spendy but worth it. Scott had lamb (baa), Karen had
chicken stuffed with smoked salmon. Alsace white wine (one of
our favorite types of wine), we wrapped it up with a small plum
pudding 
(plumbing pudding as we were later to discover), a cheese plate
and Irish coffee and port. The mass quantities of food, walking
and exercise and the late hour did us in. We walked back to the
B&B, took a few more cow photos by moonlight. Back at the
room we observed there were three channels available on the TV,
and went to sleep.
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Dingle, Co. Kerry to Ennis, Co. Clare
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Thursday 9/26
  Arose
with minor internal distress (see plumbing pudding in prior
entry). Ate a good Irish breakfast notwithstanding and packed
up. Walked around Dingle shopping for flags and stuff. Found
something sufficiently awful for Scott's brother David. We were
not quite sure what it was. It looked like an ancient Celtic
warrior that had been preserved in a peat bog. Why he was riding
a surf board was a mystery. Crudely carved, wild ropey looking
hair and leathered skin. We found out later that it was probably
from some tropical place and had nothing to do with Ireland. Oh
well, it's not sitting in our house!
  Left the
Dingle Peninsula regretfully but we knew we'd be back for a
longer stay! We headed uphill for Conner
Pass. Beautiful drive that winds up and away from Dingle.
You can stop along the way and view/photograph across the valley
with Dingle and the bay in the distance. As you rise higher, you
move into the clouds and the wind increases. At the peak you can
see into the next valley where there are many lakes. Weather
conditions vary, so be prepared for cold, wind and possibly
rain. It was fairly decent while we were there. In the parking
area a harpist was playing and said he was playing in Dingle
that night. We toyed with the idea of heading back, but ventured
onward towards Galway.
 Stopped in Camp on the
way to Tralee at the Railway Tavern and chatted with the owner
Mike O'Neill and Rusty the dog. Actually the plumbing pudding
had taken full effect (remember plums are dried prunes, do the
math) and the facilities were required. The Railway Tavern is
your quintessential Irish pub. Lots of clutter and interesting
stuff on the walls, a fireplace, live music in the evenings and
a character behind the bar. The doors were all open and there
was a view out onto the bay and a stiff breeze blew the salt air
in. Scott had been looking for scrumpy
(rough cider) on tap since we arrived. Bulmers
cider just didn't cut it, although it isn't bad on a hot day.
Low and behold, bigger than life on the tap there were the
magical words. SCRUMPY It was about 11:15am but no matter,
plumbing matters taken care of, a pint was poured (Karen had
some tea). It was pretty smooth, not as dry as expected. Not a
lot of kick, but very tasty. It went down quickly while chatting
with Mike. We told him we'd like to create our own Irish pub in
the basement of our house and he took off and came back with a
bar towel and
Murphy's Stout bar tray to take with us. We purchased a
couple of horse brass replicas he had for sale and wishing we
could stay for the day and evening, headed for Tralee. Note
to potential scrumpy drinkers, give yourself some time between
the pint and getting behind the wheel, it sneaks up on you.
 We traveled through Tralee and up to Ennis.
Lot more photo opportunities on the drive. Stopped in Ennis and
phoned for a B&B. Found one up the hill from the city
center. It was more modern looking. Very large room and bathroom
with bidet. The bathroom was bigger than some rooms we'd stayed
in. We walked out to explore and look for nourishment. Not
impressed with the town, perhaps we were jaded after Dingle.
Wandered up and down fairly empty streets looking for food.
Stumbled into Cruises Bar. Evidently it is famous, go figure.
Very picturesque and quite large. We settled in a small side
room with a fireplace. The waiter was very friendly and told us
about the best pint of Guinness he'd ever had. Evidently they had
several bars in the place and they had once taken a keg from one
to another, something about the move process improved the flavor
to the point that they stopped pouring it for the customers and
the staff drank it all themselves. Hopefully this was over a
period of time! Another couple joined us. They were from New
York. Newly married, he was a real joker. Good conversation. It
all came to an end when some younger tourists with backpacks
came in and lit up. We paid up, said goodbye and walked back to
the B&B with smoke in our lungs, clothes and hair. Missing
Dingle...
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Ennis, Co. Clare to Salthill, Co. Galway
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Friday 9/27
Left Ennis with no regrets and traveled into the
Burren. Several misrouting situations due to poor signage and
operator error. Visited the Burren
Centre in Kilfenora more to use the facilities than for
any other reason. We had a brief wander through the gift shop.
While looking out one of the windows, Scott spotted an old Irish
gentleman (not so much as we later discovered) in tweed and a
jaunty cap sitting on a pile of slate near the tour bus stop. We
went outside and spoke to him for a moment. He asked if we'd
like a picture of him (we did) and would the lovely young lady
like to sit beside him (she didn't but acquiesced). He smiled
with a big wide toothless (well maybe three) grin.
 He pulled
out his pipe and adjusted his cap, put his arm around Karen and
they were set. Scott fumbled with the camera to get it set right
and shot a couple of pictures. Karen's smile looked a bit
forced, but she doesn't like having her picture taken at the
best of times. The old guy asked if we might have the price of a
pint on us, we dug around and came up with a few Euros. He
thanked us and as we walked away I observed that he had a pretty
good gimmick going there. Sitting in front of the tour bus
looking all picturesque and then hitting the tourists up for
money after. Karen said that was true, and even worse he was
trying to feel her up while I was taking the picture. She had to
keep her arm clamped on his hand to keep it from roaming. Ahhhh
the Irish, they are so charming.
The experience disconcerted us to the extent that
we missed going to see the high crosses we were originally
looking for. We headed off to look for the Poulnabrone
dolman. Now this is a fairly prominent landmark. You see
it on postcards, websites and books. Virtually everywhere in
every gift shop. Signs along the road point to the correct
direction. Well, up to a point. Then all references vanish. We
covered a lot of territory around the Burren, great views,
countryside, stone, cows and such, but the dolman remained
elusive. Scott speculated it was related to Brigadoon, it moved
around the countryside and hid from tourists. We never did find
it and had to be content with the postcards. (we did find it on
the next trip).
  Took a
swing west to the Cliffs
of Moher. Watched the eejit tourists dangling their feet
off the edge or hanging their heads and arms off to take a
picture. The wind was quite fierce, but the view was lovely. It
was a long way down if one were to slip. Lots of tourists and
buses. We discovered a good travel tip in the next trip. Go
after hours. You can still get in, don't have to pay to park
or fight crowds, and it is lovely at sunset. No one
slipped or was blown off the edge, so reluctantly we moved on.
  We
continued to Doolin
for a look. Found a nice beach with interesting rock formations.
Karen threw a rock and a visiting spaniel retrieved it. We
missed our dog Clancy
(the tin retriever, she's not quite golden). We were
briefly confused by the sudden proliferation of
directional signs outside of
 Doolin,
but  survived to find the town. Had a pint and
some very good seafood chowder at one of the pubs, a few shop
expeditions and then off again. Note to shoppers, this is a
dangerous town. Time to head north towards Galway. Karen
went to sleep and missed much of the drive along Galway Bay and
the Burren. Lots of unpiled rocks divided neatly by piled ones.
Still no dolman.
Into Galway. Big confusing city with lots of
roundabouts outside and winding streets inside. Even with maps
and directions we never were able to navigate it well. Found the
road to Salthill where we had a B&B reserved. Got to Atlantic
Heights B&B, right across from Galway Bay. Madeline,
our hostess, was wonderful. Made us feel right at home. Very
nice room. Lots of information about the area and a lovely
parlor. The breakfast menu was exceptional and leaned towards
smoked salmon and smoked bacon, gourmet quality (not a bad
thing). Went to dinner, found a bistro and had a decent meal.
The place was crowded and seemed to have a lot of kids mucking
about. Back to the B&B to watch TV. More channels and we had
our first exposure to the European Idol and the Osbornes.
Overwhelmed, we went to sleep.
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Salthill, Co. Galway to Inis Mór, Aran
Islands
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Saturday 9/28
Woke up early, ate a great breakfast (see the B&B link
above for the menu) and got information from our hostess about
the Aran Direct. We
decided to take the Queen of Aran 2 as it was owned by locals
and left from Rossaveal which was fairly close to us. Our
Hostess secured tickets for us on the phone and we were off. We
took a quick, short drive to find Rossaveal, it turned out to be
a bit longer and not so quick. We heard the Irish phrase once
again, "it's just down the road". Ten miles later we found it,
parked and got in line. Boarding began shortly, and we found
seats for the half hour or so trip to Inis
Mór. It is a pretty good size boat and rides well in the
rough water to the islands. We started out sitting on the deck
seats, but migrated below as the wind and spray intensified. The
ride was fairly short, not too rough The potential for
seasickness is very real if you're prone to it. We weren't, but
did notice a few greenish faces.
We arrived at Kilronan and disembarked. We had pretty much
decided to bike around the island as Karen is allergic to horses
and walking was too slow. We rented a couple of mountain bikes
(just to the right of the quay) for a reasonable price and set
off in the general direction of
Dún Aengus. Biking was fine on the level parts. We saw an
interesting looking structure on a hill and off we went like a
pair of
amadans. We had to push the bikes up most of the way as it
was very steep and others were walking up too. According to the
map
it was Dún Eochaill. Unfortunately for all concerned it was
closed for the season, day, or the caretaker was out to lunch,
anyway the door in was locked. All the other people trooped down
the hill the way they'd come. Not us! Furthering our insanity
claim, we followed a narrow track past the site and further down
the other side. Our logic was that it was a small island, and we
couldn't get lost and we'd see more interesting stuff. Turns out
we were right. The path bumped along until it met a lane.
 We'll
call it a lane because to call it a path would imply that it
would be comfortable to walk on. It was closer to cobblestone,
and lined on both sides with stone walls. We jostled down the
"lane" for a good ways, up and down hills with a great view the
whole time. We saw no one else, it felt like we were alone on
the island. Eventually, we rejoined a paved road and shortly
after came across a beach that
looked like it could be on a tropical island. Blue sky, crystal
clear water and white sand. There were even a few brave souls
swimming, we were not tempted. We continued on to
Dún Aengus. There are several shops in before the entrance
with a variety of sweaters and other knitted goods. We poked
around briefly to rest before leaving the bikes and starting the
climb to
Dún Aengus. It
 was about
a mile up a rocky path until you reach the fort. There is a
narrow, low doorway into the fort and it opens up into a clear
area surrounded by a stone wall. The far side drops off
rather abruptly into the sea. Possibly it was a complete circle
at one point, but erosion has taken half of it. It was a pretty
sheer drop with no barriers or signs.
 The
Irish figure that common sense should prevail and if not, well
you're probably to dumb to live anyway and they're well rid of
you. We noticed this throughout the country. You didn't see to
many coffee cups label "caution, contents hot". The wind was
pretty stiff, but we stayed at the
 top for
awhile taking pictures and looking out and down into the sea
crashing against the rocks below. We ventured back down to the
shops, picked up a few things and hopped on the bikes to
return to Kilronan. The bumpy roads began to take their toll on
our posteriors. We passed several nice cottages on the paved
road as well as a graveyard. We made several stops to take more
pictures and eventually returned the bikes and walked into
Kilronan. We were walking a bit like cowboys and noticed others
doing the same. We grabbed a burger and fries at a small cafe,
the only food available that time of year, and then
visited the Aran
Sweater Market. Quite a selection and we escaped with only
minor damage to the credit cards. Karen bought a nice sweater
that she wears quite often. We found several nice gifts for
friends and family. Prices were reasonable considering the
quality. Prices are significantly higher for hand knit items.
 We went back aboard the ferry and
set sail back for Rossaveal. It was an uneventful trip although
there were some nice views leaving and arriving as you passed
the shoreline. Back into the
car and then back to the B&B. We ventured into Galway
and found a pizza place. Well, sort of pizza, it was not far
from Totinos
frozen pizza (survival food for college students) except
that it had less sauce, meat and cheese and cost 12 times as
much. A quick trip to the off license provided a few cans of Guinness. We sat out on the lawn in front
of the B&B and watched the sun set on Galway Bay and gnawed
our pizza crust. We cleaned up our mess, (don't want to be ugly
Americans) and went off to bed.
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Salthill, Co. Galway to Spiddal
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Sunday 9/29
Woke up and showered and headed off to a fine breakfast.
Especially enjoyed the fresh fruit and juices. Went into Galway
city center in search of an Internet Cafe. Found one across from
a church and then remembered it was Sunday. Hung out in front of
the Internet Cafe in the rain and people watched until it
opened. Very modern looking place, with lots of wood and
polished chrome. Checked email and headed back West for Spiddal.
We left Galway and took a leisurely drive along Galway Bay to
the west. The day was overcast with light rain showers. Prior to
arriving in Spiddal is the Spiddal Crafts Centre. It’s a group
of shops with crafts by independent artists in a variety of
media, from pottery to leather. We spent about an hour browsing
the shops that were open on a Sunday. We purchased some very
nice pottery from one of the pottery shops. Continuing on the
road we soon arrived in Spiddal.
  We had a goal of
finding Hugh’s Bar and Spiddal House. Both locations are well
known to fans of the music group The
Waterboys. Scott is a fan, Karen tolerates them. We were
quickly distracted by the church and quay to the left as you
enter town. Making a left hand turn after the church, we drove
alongside the graveyard and into a public parking area quayside.
From there we walked along several dock areas with old wooden
boats and currachs (tar and canvas covered boats). We walked
across the parking lot, through a gate and into the church
graveyard and read and photographed many old
gravestones and crosses. The graveyard is very wild and
picturesque. There is a small stone chapel in the graveyard that
is of particular interest.
We walked across the street to the small market and asked where
Spiddal House was. One person had never heard of it, the other
said it was just up the side street along side the market, but
that it was gated and we couldn’t get in. We purchased a couple
ice cream cones and left to drive up the road to the gate.
 As we exited the
market, I had to laugh because the building across the way from
the market was clearly labeled Hugh’s Bar, we didn't ask about
it, but there it was. One site down, and Spiddal House to go. We
drove up the road a very short way and saw a large stone wall
and iron gate. No
 label or
sign though. Assuming that this must be it, Scott got out of the
car and took a couple of pictures of the gate and gatehouse.
Scott noticed that the wall was falling down by the gatehouse
and would be easy to hop over. Karen was game, so over we went
and walked up the half mile or so road to the house.
 It’s
very overgrown with beautiful old trees and many wild flowers.
Nice stone bridge over a stream is worthy of contemplation and
perhaps a rest on the seat built into the bridge. There is a
huge old tree just past the bridge on the right. The carriage
house is through the trees on the right a bit further up. A big
open area in front of the house allows views from several
angles. The house is in very poor condition, but it’s easy to
imagine that is was quite impressive in its time. It’s covered
with red ivy. An arch on the right leads to the back where some
construction work was evident. Walking
 around
the front to the left reveals the location of the cover shot on
the
Fisherman's Blues
album. The arched walkway is particularly nice. Look at some of
the stone work on the pillar tops, each is different on each
side. There is also a nice tiled inlay of the Madonna and Child
on the back wall. The house may be undergoing renovation.
There was probably an incredible view of Galway Bay at one time
from the front of the house. The trees are blocking the once
magnificent view. We ran into a couple of other people there who
claimed to know the owner and told us that the back door was
wide open and to feel free to look around inside. Some
remodeling had taken place in the recent past and things were
quite torn up inside. We walked around carefully and were very
impressed with the tile work in the entryway. If you can access
the interior, the tile in the entry is well worth a look. Very
intricate and colorful.
 
 
  We
walked back down the road and agreed that hopping over the wall
was well worth it. We paid a visit to Hugh’s Bar for a pint and
the restroom. The bar is famous as a recording location and
hangout of Mike
Scott and The Waterboys during the
Fisherman's Blues
and
Room to Roam
album years. The place is warm and cheerful. There was a woman’s
football playoff match on the telly, and the place was quite
crowded and loud. Much cheering and the crowd were many pints
ahead of us. I wish we could have visited when we could have
heard some music; it seemed like a very pleasant bar and group
apart from the gentleman who visited the ladies room while Karen
was in residence.
 Spiddal
would be well worth considering as an alternative location to
staying in Galway. There are many B&B’s in the vicinity and
it’s not far from the Aran Island ferry in Rossaveal.
  After a
brief refresher in the B&B room (short nap) we trekked back
into Galway to find some food and poke around a bit. As we
recall we drove in the usual random circles looking for food or
a landmark. Again, we found Galway hard to navigate in the car. The streets seemed random and things
were not where they were the last time. We found an interesting
section at the South end of Galway that had a couple of casinos
and a variety of restaurants. We wandered into Claude's
Casino first. We were pretty sure the slot machines were
shipped over from Vegas and had been in regular use since the
early 50's. Probably not a lot of cleaning either. It was an
interesting variety of kid oriented stuff and slots and poker
machines. We wandered around and looked at the overall
collection of antiques and plugged a few 5 cent coins in. Across
the street was a more modern facility, the Seapoint
Leisure Centre. Lots of glass and bright carpeting. It was
divided into a kids section and another room for the "serious"
gambling machines. The machines were newer, but the room was
large, dark and smoky. The people in front of the machines were
chain smoking and looked pretty grim. Breathing the air for more
than a couple of minutes began to make the lungs burn and eyes
water. We adjourned to the kids area which was separated by an
entry way and doors. No smoke and much better lighting. People
here looked cheerful and kids were running everywhere. We
proceeded to waste about two hours and 30 Euro playing nickel
games that involved trying to knock toys and more coins down. We
did fairly well and ended up with a handful of useless toys for
the nieces and nephews. Hey they're from Ireland, they're
special toys!
Hungry now we ventured up and down the street looking for food.
We found Karachi, a promising Indian restaurant next to
the pizza place of little sauce visited earlier in the week. The
place looked intriguing, and the menu was extensive. The problem
was that it was empty. Perhaps a Sunday evening was not their
busiest time. The owner, well turbaned was barking into the
phone and the waitress spoke decent English but with a eastern
European accent. We opened the menu and were presented with a
huge dilemma. The menu was about 20 pages of Indian food divided
by region. The descriptions were more than adequate to know what
you were getting, but there were to many choice, the place
smelled good and we were starving. We ordered some appetizers
and three main dishes (hoping they were not huge portions as at
the Chinese restaurant in Michalstown)
we settled in to enjoy the Indian pop music. Karen was chair
dancing to the music when the food arrived. Decent sized
portions and very good. It became evident throughout the evening
from the stream of people and the owner being on the phone that
they did a great takeaway business. It was some of the best
Indian food we'd ever had and an enjoyable evening. Replete with
food and entertainment, we stashed our toys and headed back to
the B&B. A little more exposure to Irish television and we
were ready to call it a night.
TOP | BACK
|
Salthill, Co. Galway to Athlone, Co.
Roscommon
|
|
Monday 9/30
Book interlude
Here are some books we read, reread or discovered on our
trip. We think you'll enjoy them too. They are all related to
traveling, living and surviving in Ireland. They are best to
read after you've been once. So much will make more sense.
Book interlude
Here are some books we read, reread or discovered on our
trip. We think you'll enjoy them too. They are all related to
traveling, living and surviving in Ireland. They are best to
read after you've been once. So much will make more sense.
Got up and headed for the final great breakfast at
Atlantic Heights B&B. We packed up and bid farewell to
Salthill. The major regret was having more time to spend further
West. We drove into Galway looking for a laundry that we'd seen
the day before. Evidently it had moved, closed down over night
or was attached to the dolman. Bought parking disc (new
experience) and found that a parking disc doesn't guarantee
parking. Finally found a spot and sallied forth into the Galway
shopping district. Most of the shops were not overly
interesting. We did some browsing in a bookstore looking for
Ireland specific kids books for our niece. No luck in the
Internet Cafes or tech shops offloading the memory stick. Time
on the parking disc was running out so we returned to the car and wound our way around the string
of roundabouts out of Galway.
  We left
Galway and headed North on the N17 towards Tuam with the goal of
visiting Knock in Co. Mayo. Shortly after leaving Galway we saw
a fairly significant ruined building on the left side of the
road. Turns out it is significant and has a name,
Ross Errily Franciscan Friary. Turns out
that it is the biggest Franciscan friary in Ireland, or what's
left of it anyway. Some construction was going on that proved to
be restoration. The only cars in the lot were those of the
workman. Not being ones to miss any chance to tromp around in
old, busted up ruins, we made a quick stop. It was a very
fortuitous find as the ruins proved to be extensive and not
overly restored. There were many interesting grave stones in and
around the abbey. Much of the walls were still intact, allowing
you to visualize the size the place was when in its full glory.
Back on the N17 we drove through Tuam to Knock.
Knock was an interesting experience. It is a major tourist draw
and while the actual Knock
shrine site is fairly restrained, the shops and booths
around are a sight to behold. There is an International Airport
in Knock just to handle the tourist
 traffic.
Many very tacky displays of statues, icons, and other pretty
gaudy stuff. One of the major things to do is get water from
Knock. The water is free, but the wide variety of water holders
are not. They range from cheap plastic bottles with a Knock
label to gilded glass. We poked around a few shops then went
into the main shrine area. The chapel is very beautiful with a
representation of the events that lead to Knocks popularity. We
walked around and through some of the other buildings as well.
Pretty much a crash course in Irish Catholicism. We went back to
the shops and began some serious browsing as we needed water
receptacles to deliver the Knock water we'd promised to
relatives. After some comparison shopping we selected a variety
of interesting shapes, sizes and colors and carried them back to
the filling station/water dispensers. General wetness ensued as
we tried to funnel the large flow into the small bottles. Well
watered, we packed up our bottles and went back to the car.
We traveled in a Southeast direction towards
Athlone with no particular goal. We made a phone call around
Castlerea to find a B&B near Athlone. We tracked down one
easily, the
Fairways B&B, and the hostess told us we must stop in
Knockcroghery to visit the Clay
Pipe Visitors Museum on the way. She was quite adamant.
Not being ones to turn down a new experience, we had a go.
The village of
Knockcroghery in Co. Roscommon was famous for almost 300
years as a center for the production of clay pipes or "Dúidíns".
In the late 1800s, pretty much the entire village was involved
in the manufacture of the pipes with seven different families
involved, each with their own kiln. Production of the pipes in
Knockcroghery ceased abruptly in 1921, when the village
was burned down by the Black & Tans during the War of
Independence. In 1997, Ethel Kelly revived the craft on the
original site of Curley's
clay-pipe factory, using the tools, moulds and methods
dating back almost three centuries. There is a small museum and
shop in the town that provides an interesting short tour. The
owner is friendly and full of historical information about the
town and clay pipes. You can purchase a pipe on site or online.
There are examples of many clay pipes over a long period of time
as well as photos of the previous factories and people.
Be sure to go to the pub one door to the west. It’s small, but
lively. We popped in for a pint and ended up staying for several
hours, chatting with the barkeep and the owner. The barkeeper
gave us a glass and bar towel for our collection. He also
commiserated with us on the lack of heat in Irish food. He loved
hot sauce and we promised to send him some and a pint glass or
two from home. (We did pack up several McMenamin's
glasses, one of our local brewpubs, and some hot sauce). Several
locals wandered in and put down a quick pint and appeared to be
settling in for the evening. We purchased a round for everyone,
which loosened them up considerably. In fact, they didn’t want
us to leave and wanted to each buy us a round. Five or six pints
is a little more than we wanted to consume at that early hour,
so we begged off and headed towards
Fairways B&B. The B&B was very nice, comfortable
and the room was large and clean. We unpacked and discussed
dinner options with our hostess. She recommended the Palace
Bar in Athlone right by the castle.
We drove into Athlone and sure enough, there was a castle.
You couldn't miss it. Unfortunately it was closed, so no tour.
We found parking right in front of the Palace Bar, a large
building with an impressive stone entrance. We went in for
a bite. The food leaned heavily in the cow direction with large
portions being a primary focus. We tanked up on protein and
pototoes. The other thing our hostess had recommended was Sean's
Bar, the oldest bar in Ireland. We couldn't miss this as it was
just down the road on the other side of the castle. We could see
it as we exited the Palace
Bar. We left the
car and walked down the hill to Sean's Bar. The front
wasn't well lit but the windows cast a inviting warm yellow
glow. There was a fire burning in the hearth just to the right,
and it was full but not overerly croweded. We took a stool at
the bar and settled in to enjoy the craic
and general atmosphere.
 Sean's Bar
is located in old town Athlone near Athlone
castle. The claim to be the oldest bar in Ireland is
certainly loudly contested by other pubs, but with the evidence
presented around the pub, one would be hard pressed to dispute
their claims. A display in the bar contains clay pipes (see
Knockcroghery Journal Entry above) found behind wattle and
wicker walls during renovations. Our B&B hostess recommended
a restaurant (which we found average), but said we must visit Seans
Bar. It was across the parking lot and street from the
restaurant. The front is typical Irish pub and has an warm
inviting feel, inviting you in. The service is fast and friendly
and the crowd is a mix of locals and tourists "in the know". The
bar was already crowded when we came in. It’s long and narrow
with the bar running most of the length. We sat at the bar and
ordered two pints and within minutes we were in conversation
with one of the men sitting by us. He had been there since noon
and was many pints ahead of us and had switched to Kahlua and
Cream to settle his stomach (understandably). Eventually over
the course of the evening he added the pint back into his menu.
We were amazed at his prodigious alcohol consumption. He was in
town on a construction contract and had little to do in the
evenings but hang out in the pubs. Seans
Bar was his favorite in
 Athlone.
We chatted about Ireland, America and a little of everything
else as the Guinness flowed. Later in the evening a
young man showed up with a guitar and started doing traditional
and Celtic/Irish pop tunes. Being a Waterboys fan and wearing a
t-shirt from their last US tour, Scott requested Fisherman’s
Blues, one of their most popular songs. He knew it and evidently
most of the crowd did too. A sing along ensued for all
subsequent songs, Waterboys or other. After five hours and many
pints, and innumerable trips to the bathroom (very clean but
rustic with interesting pen & ink prints on the wall), we
decided to call it a night. Irish pubs usually close around 11pm
(so they say) but it was easily 1am or later. Scott can’t attest
to the exact time as his eyes didn’t seem to be focusing
correctly and the ground had a significant angle to it in all
directions.
Fortunately, Karen had shown greater restraint and was well able
to drive except that she had forgotten her glasses. With the
blind leading the blind we lurched off into the dark and rainy
night and after a few misadventures with directions, water
towers, metal bands in the road, and fiberglass ice cream cones,
managed to locate the B&B and crawled into for bed. All in
all we both agreed that this was our best pub experience with
the craic,
Guinness, and music all coming together
with the friendly service and company to form the perfect and
memorable Irish experience. If you want to experience the best
in Irish pub life, sit at the bar.
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|
Athlone, Co. Roscommon to Slane, Co. Meath
|
|
Tuesday 10/1
 The next morning we were not sure
whether to throw our clothes out the window or burn them. The
bar was smoky, and the smell of stale cigarette smoke was almost
unbearable. We stuffed them all into a large plastic bag and
then tied it shut and then put it inside another plastic bag.
That made them bearable until we got to a laundry. We had
breakfast and packed up and hit the open road. We dropped off
all the clothes in Athlone and made arrangements to pick them up
later in the day while we headed for
Clonmacnoise.
  Skies
were moderately overcast with the threat of some showers, but we
pressed on to
Clonmacnoise. Located in the Boyne Valley on the river
Shannon,
Clonmacnoise is one of the early Christian settlements.
There is an excellent visitors center with loads of information
about the history of the region and site. There are some very
nice high crosses in the visitors area with replicas in their
original positions. There are two high towers, a cathedral and
numerous other buildings surrounded by the graveyard. The
graveyard has many interesting stones and crosses. There is a
wonderful view of the river from the grounds. We took pictures
and wandered amidst intermittent rain showers. At one point it
was raining so hard and we were so soaked we just kept
wandering. We couldn't get any wetter. The sun came out and we
dried quickly. Grabbed a cup of tea and a snack in the cafe and
warmed up a bit.
Clonmacnoise is another Duchas
Heritage Site.
 
 
 Driving
along and looking at the map and literature we had picked up
somewhere we spotted the Blackwater Bog tour. It was appealing
in several ways. First it was covered and the weather was still
wet and cold. Second it took us out on a real bog that was being
worked for the peat. We found it fairly easily. It doesn't seem
fair that now that we've figured out how to navigate Irish
roads and maps, that it's almost time to go home. The tour
location was well signed and had a large sculpture of a peat
hurler out front. Note: the Irish signs along the road for road
construction looked somewhat like a man with a hurling stick. We
were also amused by the Loose Chippings signs for loose gravel.
But we digress, the tour building had some interesting displays
of bog oak and things found in bogs, from jewelry to bodies
preserved in bog water. We boarded the small train and we were
off on the tour. The train circled a large area of bog, much of
it being harvested and burned for electricity. We had a chance
to try our hand at digging peat the old way. We both declined
due to the waterlogged nature of the hole and our clothes. We
were shown the oak stumps found in the bog as well as the
profusion of plants that grow. Many wild flowers, there is much
more life in a bog than one would think. Walking on the bog felt
like walking on a giant mattress. If someone jumped a few yards
away, we could feel it. It was a strange feeling of not quite solid ground. The
train passed unharvested parts of the bog and an
 old house
still standing after years of neglect. In the distance you could
see a smoke stack where the peat was burned and the smell of
burning peat was in the air. Even now that smell can take us
back to Ireland. We've considered bringing back a block or two
of the compressed peat sold in the markets for home use for a
special occasion. We had an all Guinness night where Scott cooked and
BBQ'd and all food had Guinness in it. fondue, salad dressing, Ribs in a Guinness marinade and Guinness cake for desert. A block of peat
burning nearby would have been perfect. Our Guinness
Recipe page might give you an idea or two. You can buy peat incense
here.
After a brief run through the displays again (they made more
sense after the tour), we hopped in the car to return to Athlone. We pulled up
the lane to the main road. At the main road Karen was looking at
the map to determine the proper direction. Scott looked both
ways but more to the right. As we pulled out another car came racing over the hill to the left
as we pulled out going to the left.
 They
swerve and so did we but there was some impact. OUCH. We both
pulled off the road and got out to examine the damage. No one
was hurt, just a bit rattled. Turned out that they were newlywed
tourists from Israel. There appeared to be no damage to their car and
very little to ours. We exchanged rental company and personal
information and got back into the car to continue. Once our heart rates
slowed we went looking for food. We found a restaurant called
Grogan's that advertised a Carvery Lunch. We'd seen many Carvery
signs around, but had not been inclined to eat big lunches
(usually sandwiches were fine) because of the large breakfasts.
The place looked large, warm and comfortable, which it was. It
was nearing the end of the lunch time, but we squeaked in and
grabbed a plate. It was pretty much like a cafeteria. You walked
down the row and picked your vegetable. Potatoes were a given,
but many choices. Some grey peas and carrots, and a choice of
lasagna, roast beef or chicken. Huge quantities of food, but we
were cold, tired and still a bit damp and shaken. Note:
Irish lasagna isn't like Italian lasagna, it usually has
cheddar cheese and little tomato sauce. It is more like wide
noodles, ground beef and cheese. Not bad, but not lasagna.
Returned to Athlone to retrieve the laundry. They did a
wonderful job, nicely folded and best of all, smoke free!
 Drove Northeast up
through Kilbeggan, Athboy to Navan and then to Slane. Called
along the way to find a B&B, no problem and secured a
reservation at the San Giovanni House. Slane
Castle was undergoing renovation so we didn't get to see
it except as a drive-by. Had an average dinner in Slane, steak
and salmon and then back to the B&B. The room was large and
nice with lots of woodwork, recent renovation in the bathroom
and very clean.
TOP | BACK
|
Slane, Co. Meath to Kells, Co. Meath
|
|
Wednesday 10/2
Took a more leisurely approach to getting up as we
did not have as far to travel and the weather was cloudy. Had a
good breakfast and chatted with Himself. Heard a lot of politics
and general information about Ireland's current state of
affairs. Evidently Karen made an impression because she got a
good bye kiss to boot. We packed up and headed off for the
Brú na Boinne Vistor Centre.
The
Brú na Boinne Vistor Centre is a large modern building
that houses displays and information about the archeological
heritage of the Boyne valley region. You can purchase tickets
for the bus tours to Newgrange
and Knowth.
You can kill time walking around the center and looking at the
displays or watching one of the presentation. There is a gift
shop and food area as well. A short walk across a pedestrian
bridge takes you to the bus area. There is a semi-covered
waiting area. The weather was a bit blustery and cold while we
waited. The buses are clean and smaller so you're not with a
huge crowd. The bright colored stickers identify the tour you
are going on. We purchased tours for both Newgrange
and Knowth.
  We
went to Knowth
first. The bus pulled up to a small road area with lots of
bushy growth around. We walked up a short path to a small
wooden building with a deck area. You could see some of the
mounds a short distance away. We had a young and energetic
guide who began giving us the history of the area and the
mounds. We were
able to walk around and between the mounds. They varied in
size from small hills to huge piles of rock and dirt. We were
able to go part way into the largest and see some of the
internal construction. We
also examined the carved rocks around the perimeter of the
mound. Each was carved differently and we were told on both
sides.
 Considering
that the
 carving
was done in the stone age, someone had a lot of patience.
There were also a few standing stones and other remnants of
settlement around the mound. We also climbed to the top of the
largest mound and had a great view of the valley (amidst the
clouds and showers). We had a few good downpours while we were
there and there is very little shelter. An umbrella or rain
coat would be a good precaution if the weather is threatening.
 
  Newgrange was
the next stop. It is a much more pristine site. It has a
manicured lawn area in front and the grounds are very clean.
It is a single large mound that you can go into. Again there
was a tour guide who explained the site and its history. There
is a large rock at the entrance with distinctive spiral
carvings. Must have been a real effort to move it in place.
The outer face of Newgrange
is covered in white rock and visible from a good distance.
Because the site is on a hill you can see a good portion of
the valley. We were able to go into the mound to the center
chamber and there was a reenactment of what it is like with
the sunlight comes down the chamber path and lights the
chamber. You could see how the chamber was constructed from
pattern of the rocks inside. Also interesting was the
accumulation of graffiti over
 hundreds
of years. We are not the only derelict generation. We didn't
add anything to the walls and walked back out and took a walk
around the circumference
of the mound. It also has carved stones and is quite large.
The weather soon drove us back to the shelter of the bus and
we returned to the
Brú na Boinne Vistor Centre.
  We called
ahead to Kells looking for a B&B and found one called Teach
Cuaigne B&B. Accommodations assured we drove towards the
town of Kells. We arrived just as school was letting out. A
gaggle of uniformed school girls, buses and parents slowed
traffic to a crawl. We didn't know we were sitting right next to
a nice graveyard (we found it next trip). We found the Kells
Heritage Centre by the (replica) of a high cross in front.
After some admiring and picture taking we went over to the
Heritage Centre, paid the fee to get in and found that the cross
in front was a replica. The Heritage Centre had some interesting
items and information, but overall we found it a poor value for
the money. There is a replica of the Book of Kells as well.
Actually replica pretty much sums up the experience there. We
found the gift shop more entertaining and bought a few items for
friends.
 We left the Heritage Centre and
went in search of Teach Cuaigne B&B. We spent the evening
repacking and getting rid of items we didn't want to cart home.
We had a lot of stuff spread over the bed, but somehow managed
to get it all packed up. We definitely need to invest in better
travel bags. We dined on leftover snacks and Club soda.
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Kells, Co. Meath to Dublin
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|
Thursday 10/3
 We were
hungry in the morning because of the snack and sugar laden
dinner. We had the usual full Irish breakfast and well fueled we
loaded our bags into the car. The morning was clear and bright,
the sky was blue and clear. There was a bit of chill that
rapidly diminished as we drove through winding back roads
towards
Mellifont Abbey. 10km from Drogheda, take the R168
Drogheda to Collon Road. Old Mellifont Abbey is situated 2km off
R168.
  We arrived
early at the site, before 10am. The site wasn't officially open
until 10am, and we puttered around looking at the ruined
entryway. It had wildflowers growing from sections. We couldn't
see much of the actual site down lower and we waited a few
minutes until we were admitted into the small visitor center.
There is a very modest fee to view the site. The visitor center
has a display of column and building carvings that have fallen
off the ruins or been excavated. These are displayed with
information about their original position. There is quite a bit
of additional
history and information about the site. The man running
the center was helpful. We accessed the restrooms (clean), and
wandered down into the main portion of the site.
Mellifont Abbey, founded by Saint Malachy in 1142,
was Ireland's first Cistercian Monastery. There are a variety of
buildings on the site from foundations outlining the building to
fully roofed chapels. The most striking features are the arched
sections of wall the octagonal Lavabo. The octagonal shape is
unique, and we had not seen the shape in any other ruins. The
arched columns were much lighter in weight than other sites and
almost looked to delicate to have survived. There was great
lighting, and the clear skies and bright grass contrasted
nicely. We   wandered
through the different buildings and took many pictures. The site
was very accessible. There was nothing to stop you from close up
examination of details. We only ran into a locked area at the
small chapel. We suspect it had not been open yet. We were able
to see through the gate and didn't feel we missed anything
major. If it had been a bit later in the morning and the grass
and bushes dryer, we would have wandered around the countryside
more. Everything was quite damp from the recent rain and dew.
This is a site we'd like to visit again, one of the better of
the many we explored. We were the only ones there the entire
visit. We suspect that tour buses show up at some point during
the day, but the roads were remote and narrow so there may not
be many buses.
  We piled
back into the
car, checked the map and went in search of nearby
Monasterboice or Monasterboyce (seems to be spelled both ways,
the first being more common). It is located about 2km from
Edenderry, and only a short distance from Mellifont. This is one
of the oldest monastic settlements in Ireland, dating back to
the 5th century. The monastery was built for the Franciscans by
John de Bermingham. Apparently his conscience was troubling him
after his father had massacred thirty two local chieftains at
Carrickoris Castle. There is surprisingly little information we
could find about the site. This is surprising because of the
many high crosses at the site. There is a small parking area
across from the site. The site is surrounded by a low stone wall
with a stile. There was a locked gate, but no one around to
unlock it or instructions as to what to do. We did what the
Irish told us to do, hopped the gate and went in.
 Actually
there wasn't even much hopping. The view immediately to the left
was spectacular. Green fields, trees and emerald hills against a
bright blue sky. The site is more of a graveyard and less of an
actual monastic site. There is little left of the buildings
except a chapel and an intact round tower. As we walked through
the graves, flocks of crows came and went from the tower and
circled overhead. There was a range of dates on the graves from
fairly recent to so old you couldn't read the stone. Many of the
other graves had finely carved headstones. It gave us a real
feel of history to read some of the inscriptions and dates.
 The three
high crosses are well carved and full of detail. The best of the
three is the
Muiredach cross. Muiredeach's Cross dates back to the 10th
century when it was built in honor of an abbot that lived in the
monastic site at around that time. Signs nearby help interpret
the scenes on the crosses. For an illiterate people, these
functioned as reminders of specific scenes or stories in the
Bible. The crosses were most likely painted, although no trace
of paint remains. As far as we could tell these are the
originals, not replicas as we saw at Kells. The round tower is
very intact and looks like it will be there for many more years.
The grounds are well kept and apart from hopping over the stile,
it is easy to walk around the site. There are many helpful signs
to give more information on dates and history. We only saw a few
other people that arrived about an hour or more after us. The
site is quite large but densely packed with headstones. There
are also quite a lot of trees in the site which is unusual, but
makes it a much nicer place.
  
  Returned
to Avoca
House B&B in Drumcondra. Took another run into Dublin
to do some last minute shopping. Reexposed to Lush and had to
spend some time recovering from the olfactory assault. Had a
great pint in some small hotel pub in city center. We'll have to
find it again. Small and dusty with character and characters.
Restrooms were down two flights of stairs, well below street
level and very old. Probably poured one of the best pints we had
the whole trip, but it might have been our sadness at having to
leave the next morning. We took the bus back to Drumcondra. No
problems now, we're old hands at the routes and bus numbers.
We made a quick run down the street to an
off-license to pick up some scrumpy.
They had two kinds in 4-packs so we bought one pack of each.
This added some bulk and weight to the luggage, but we made it
fit. A final visit to Fagans
for dinner left us even more nostalgic. Scott ordered the
chicken curry and asked the waitress to make it as hot as
possible. She looked skeptical and he reinforced the request
with the challenge "hurt me". When the curry came, it was about
a medium heat. Certainly the hottest food on the trip, but not
enough to raise a sweat. We'll have to remember the hot pepper
and sauce next trip. Played a little cribbage and returned to
the room for final packing. Reluctantly said goodbye to Jack and
Audrey as we had to be up in the wee hours to get to the
airport. No full Irish for us, seemed a shame that we couldn't
finish the trip with a hearty breakfast. All packed up, so off
to bed.
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Dublin to Portland, OR
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Friday 10/4
No breakfast in the morning as we had to get up early and
return the
car and catch our flight. It is better to book your flight
a bit later in the morning or at noon to avoid those early
scrambles. Flew out of Dublin to Portland, OR with little
incident. Had to report the minor scratches to the car from the
run in by the Blackwater Bog, but it only ended up costing us
about $75 US.
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